doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Spar urethane

Hi all
Ok,tell me why I'm nuts for considering using spar urethane as a shotgun stock finish??Thanks

Gooser

If you apply it using traditional methods like thinning and sanding in a few coats and applying later coats in very thin viscosity, followed by hand rubbing, I think you can obtain a very traditional looking finish that is tough, weather resistant, etc.

Or...you can simply go buy some Pro-Custom Oil (urethane enhanced oil) in either the aerosol gloss or flat or get the non-aerosol for hand application. Brownell's has it in stock.

I have used Spar Varnish on bamboo fly rods. They used to sell a variety called McClosky's Spar Varnish (red writing, no longer available), was excellent to use on products used in the outdoors. Never used it on a gunstock. The thing about spar varnish is that it can take up till 6 months to cure. On bamboo fly rods, I used to thin it out and put on several thin coats and then a final coat. On a rod I used a thin sable brush, on a gun stock, I would still use a good sable wider brush. As far as using spar urethane, if you ever want to refinish the stock again, it will be harder to strip than spar varnish. Spar varnish will give you a slight yellowish cast, whereas spar urethane will be almost clear. The reason spar varnish was good for fly rods is that it would flex with the rod and the finish would not crack. Got it's name from use on the spars (ribs) of sailing ships.

Actually, the spars are the masts and booms of a sailing vessel.

I stand corrected, thanks ShootingStar

Thanks for the replys

I have used spar Varnish as the top coat on a woodstrip Canoe I built. It has a base of epoxy and fiberglass cloth. The Spar Varnish was the top coat to protect from UV yellowing. The boat is just beautiful, and the finish is pretty durable with creful use.

I have been practicing on a piece of walnut to see about using spar Urethane as a finish for a shotgun stock. I have thinned the urethane and have applied several coats by wiping the finish on with a clean cotton cloth, and lightly sanding between coats. I'm impressed with the results so far, but an aquaintence lambasted me for considering using such a non traditional finish, and sugested Linseed (which I hate) or True oil which I've never used, and am suspicious of its durablity.

My eyes dont see the "plastic" look that others complain about with urethane. I kinda like it and think it would be durable and weather resistant.

I'm going to apply it on a custom stock for a Browning 525 that I had made at Weinigs! Its a beautiful piece of Walnut that was only their "standard" grade!! I was amazed at the Blanks beauty!! I cant imagine what their exibition grade stocks must look like!!

Thanks again for thr replys!!

Gooser

Spars are more properly yards gaffs, sprits and booms. Masts are always "sticks" in the vernacular altho rather large ones. THis kind of thing is why you shouldn't open your can of "spar" varnish with your "pen" knife. ;+)

jack

Old Homer Formby sells a ureathane product that is thin, colorless, and wipes on as well. Dries in a day, as many coats as you want to do, etc. I used it on a Tobin Black Diamond (the hardware store was clearing the stuff out for cheap, always my main purchase consideration) and, while it does dry quite shiny, I just knocked it down with some rottenstone, followed up with Birchwood Casey stock and sheen conditioner (which, truthfully, would have been fine by itself). Looks for all the world like a handrubbed-on-a-virgins-thigh oil finish, but, won't be coming off real soon. I didn't rush it, and did put quite a few coats on, and wet or dry papered between each, and was pleasantly surprised by just how good it looks.
When it comes to wood finishes, we live in good times.
Best,
Ted