doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com removing old blue

OK,
I'm about to delve into my first rust bluing project. I'd like to remove the old finish without mechanically (grit paper) doing it. There aren't any nicks, etc. that will need to be sanded/polished. I just want to replace the worn blue in the forend area. I've read about vinegar, naval jelly, etc., but what is safe for our old guns? Also, I assume that "touch up" rust bluing would be disastrous?

Thanks!

--Jay

Any of the products that remove bluing contain different forms of acid. This acid will remove the bluing, but you will still need to polish the barrels with paper before rebluing them. Spot rust bluing can be done though, someone else will probably chime in on how to do that though.

Jay,
I have been using a product that I purchase from Brownell's, called "Steel White". It works well, is non-toxic, non-corrosive, etc. But I still give everything a light going over with 320 grit wet or dry paper before bluing.

I just use Birchwood Casy Rust and Blue remover. Wash the tubes down with distilled water and if no pitting or roughness is evident, go ahead and start my first application of rust blue. Results have been perfect: nice, deep, satin finish. Chops

I have used steel white and find that I would rather start with fine paper. Steel white leaves a surface that I would describe as "pickled" and I have more trouble getting a uniform finish on that surface than on the original finish. no free rides
bill

A product that works just as well as the 30.00 a quart stuff is CLR, available at your local grocery store.

Jim

I use the Scotchbrite pads product quite a lot. They make different courseness of it. Typically find it in the paint departments- works great.

If you are satisfied with the metal surface, and re-bluing with rust blue, you don't need to remove the original blue. Just degrease and blue right over it.

If this is your first rust blue, there isn't enought time in the day to tell you everything.

Mr. Hughes,

Your words of wisdom (and the skills that back them up) are greatly appreciated. I was in hopes that I could do that. I'm not concerned about a museum-quality finish. This gun is a field grade Sauer that needs a bit of freshening up. Also, I've never had a forum to publicly thank you for your book--the spine is cracked from use. I'll post pics of the reblue when it's finished.

--Jay

Thanks for your thoughtful comments Jay!
I don't mean to be a wise-ass about rust bluing knowledge, you can get hundreds of tips and lots of instructions right here, some that even work. It's simply an experiential process, with no two jobs alike and not always predictable results.

I have found it quite easy to rust over existing blue, but also usually find that the surface isn't as good as it looks, and almost everything needs to be polished.
Have you got the new book? (Double Guns & Custom Gunsmithing) Both books have a lot of information about metal finishes.
Sauer's are some of my all-time favorite guns!
Best,
Steve