doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com question about installing recoil pad

just wanting to know what is the best way to not have your screw holes not show.I have a problem maring the rubber when i take the screws in and out.look at picture to see what i mean.I am trying to be carefull.I use a little oil to help lub the hole.any suggestions.

I use either any available hand lotion or vaseline on the screw and screwdriver. I don't get the maring shown in your picture. The screw holes should stay nice and invisible.

I have used Rig and always use a round shank screwdriver.

ken,what is rig.

best to use some spray silicone on the screw driver....oil degrades rubber.....most of the shotguns I pick up used show that kind of damage or worse...no big deal

I usually use some Superlube or STOS on the screwdriver bit. In a pinch, some saliva is better than nothing. The bits I use are Phillips bits from Brownell's, made for recoil pad work. They have a fairly small and long round shank, not much more than 1/8"(diameter). I cut the screw slit with a scalpel or Exacto knife.

What Jim said or cut plug over screw hole so you can pull and replace plug without seeing screw slot.

obtain a container of RIG grease and a Brownells Magna Tip screwdriver with 2 phillips recoil pad bits, cut your slots with a new, sharp exacto knife, push both bits into the RIG, completely coating the shank, when you put the bits into the pad leave them there, ie, do not pull it out and switch holes, switch the driver, not the bits, completely coat the screws with RIG, carefully put them in and careful when you push them out, recoil pads are one of the simplest jobs in the shop and the one most often screwed up

Have you been removing and replacing the screws, allowing the heads to come and go through the pad? If so, that's a no-no. Use every precaution to treat the slits as tenderly as possible. Use a small diameter shank, keep it lubed, and tug on the pad as you back out the screws, alternating from one to the other so as to keep the heads buried. The way those slits are gaped suggests they may have been passing large objects....

....reminds me of the guy who got kicked out of the tavern because his pet monkey disrupted a pool game and swallowed the cue ball. The next week he convinced the bartender the monkey would behave and they were allowed in. A patron gave the monkey a peanut and the monkey promptly shoved it up his butt, pulled it out and ate it. Everybody thought it was disgusting and the bartender was about to kick them out again. But then the guy explained, "Ever since he swallowed that cue ball he's been sizing everything before he eats it."

I always use transmission fluid and as small of a screwdriver as possible. Transmission fluid won't hurt the rubber. And it is slicker than most of the stuff mentioned above. I do what Mike says: Don't let the screw come all the way up and out of the pad. Leave the head hidden down under the pad when you take it off. I use transmission fuid when grinding a pad too, to keep from taking the rubber off in "chucks" and roughing up the pad. I just pour it into the cap and rub it around with my finger. Easy clean up, too.