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#113205 09/18/08 02:29 PM
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craxon Offline OP
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I have a old double that has a few dents. This may sound stupid, but can i push those out with brass balls down the bores?

craxon #113206 09/18/08 02:38 PM
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In My opinion, you should have brass balls if you are going to try removing dents from a doublegun. Seriously though, I would think the ball would have to be very close to the original bore diameter to affect the dent accuratly. Also brass is probably to soft and would give way to the indented metal of the barrel. If however, the ball is close in diameter you may go ahead and try it. I can't see how brass could do more damage, unless you drive it through the choke- and it may work! Good luck, Kurt

#113213 09/18/08 03:10 PM
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craxon Offline OP
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Kurt - thanks i agree totally. Just wanted other opinions.

craxon #113215 09/18/08 03:29 PM
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Where do you find brass balls of bore diameter? The hydraulic dent remover sold by Brownells certainly does a good job.


> Jim Legg <

Jim Legg #113218 09/18/08 03:56 PM
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Measure the bore diameter.Turn a tapered plug to the said diameter.Grease the plug, push it down to the dent, maintain a push pressure on the plug through the bore and then tap out the dent using a panel beaters flipper or a small hammer that has a smooth polished face.

Salopian #113222 09/18/08 04:37 PM
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Or send the gun to Mike Orlen. Pushing and hammering on the barrel is good way to cause more problems. Mike will measure the wall thickness and let you know if there is a potential problem.

Pete

PeteM #113224 09/18/08 04:46 PM
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craxon Offline OP
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Thanks Pete i think i will!

craxon #113282 09/19/08 03:03 AM
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I assumed the necessary skills were available.
Assume ( makes an Ass out of U & me??)

Salopian #113291 09/19/08 09:02 AM
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Craxon,
Simply pushing a ball or plug down the bore to remove a dent will not completely remove it. This is because steels have elastic properties. Depending on a number of things such as alloy, heat treat, cold forming, etc., the elastic region (also identified by "yield point") can be high or low. But all steels have elastic regions. That means that it won't act like clay and simply hold a shape that it is deflected to. It must be "over deflected" or "over bent" since it will spring back a certain amount depending on where its yield point is. This is why the hammering along with a plug is necessary. The hammering cold forges the steel while the plug is in place.

If you are not comfortable working with steel or this is a valuable gun, I think you'd be better off sending it to Mike Orlen, Steve Bertrum, or one of our other gunsmiths.


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