I have seen the article on butt transplants by David Trevallion and Michael McIntosh and was wondering if anyone has had one performed. If so, were you satisfied with the outcome? What is a good cost estimate, and who would you recommend for such a procedure?

You may do a search through the records for one done by Chuck H. If I remember correctly, he did a 3 inch add on and wasn't happy with it, so he did a cut off near the grip. Hopefully he will chime in and set me straight.

Several pics of Chuck's start here on the 'Repairs and Restorations' PictureTrail
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view...amp;offset=1000
and don't miss the pic of the just ever so slightly off-plumb butt transplant that hit the 'Trevallion Infirmary' for the cure

Are there any pictures of Chuck H's stock after being finished?

David,
If you find some, I'll be thrilled. I haven't found the time to get over to my friends shop to bore the thru-bolt hole shown in this pic. Once that's done, it's fairly straightforward work. So many things going on that I just can't find time. Soon, soon, ...really.

BTW, for those of you contemplating doing this yourself, I'd highly recommend laying it all out, in full size tracings, on craft paper. Include the barrels and especially the rib line and desired comb line, butt length, lower line of the stock, etc.

When you have it all layed out, you can determine the best cut line for the grip,
1)cut and finish the grip mortise, (this cut locates the joint, so try to place it in the checkering of the grip as much as practical while maintaining all the dimensions for strength)
2)put the grip on the gun back on the craft paper layout, transfer the line of the grip joint to the craft paper
3)lay the new blank on craft paper layout, ensuring the comb and other periphery lines are within the blank's size (be generous and allow at least a 1/2")
4)transfer the joint line as accurately as possible to the new blank (an error in angle will shift the butt up or down, so take care that the angle is correct)
5)cut the new blank joint angle and finish the tenon.
6)dry fit the butt blank to the grip and assemble on the gun and place on the craft layout.
7)doublecheck the comb, butt, and all other periphery lines to the butt blank.
8)I had enough wood to leave a chunk near the comb that allowed for easier clamping (see pics), but you could also glue a piece on to help anchor the clamp or put a screw in from under the triggerguard tang slot as Mr T recommends.
9)Glue the butt to the grip
(for drawbolt guns, you'll need to drill it at this time)
10) place the fully assembled gun on the craft layout and check again, layout your final lines
11) cut the comb line and other periphery lines leaving a bit for working it down. (at least 1/8" or a little more).
12) work the butt shape and dimensions to suit you.

Chuck,Bloody "Eloquent".....Just putting the 2nd ShotGun/Tech. together with 'Old Knobbly-Knees'McIntosh.Would like to put a 'Update Chapter" using your and'Other Stockers' Methods for 'Sticking the New butt onto the Old Guy'..I wish I still had the Joe Manton db circa 1816 that started me 'Re'Butting'..It was dovetailed in from the side, right into the middle of the Grip.. 'Aint much new in this game'.Have just had a call from the owner of the Beretta 20 O/U that is pictured in S/Gun/Tech. P.60. Its now in the hands of the 5th Owner since I'Transplanted the Butt-End!Has been to South America,Dove-Shooting 4 times!!!And lives on a S Carolina Plantation.Keep those Great Photos coming in...DeltaTango.out..C/C

Doctor T,
You're gonna force me to finish this, eah?
Alright, I'll try to get to my friend's machine shop and bore that hole and hog out the lightening slot in the next few weeks.

I'd be honored to have my work in your book. I'll send all the full file size pics I took and the ones from boring the hole also and you can chose what you like. The one above is editted to add the colored lines, of course.

Chuck, that is EXACTLY what I had in mind. Unfortunately, I have neither the tools or skills to do it myself. And even more unfortunately, my gun and funds are not Purdey-quality either.

A couple of notes on hole boring in stocks.

A Shopsmith works pretty well as a horizontal drill press. You can block up the work on the table and clamp it rock-steady. Eyeball the center line marked on the outside, and you will come out very well. Of course a lathe, center-to-center works even better.

Use a "gun drill" to make the through-bolt hole. It's drill rod of proper diameter cut to about a 45 radius on the business end, slightly relieved to form a cutting edge. Before cutting the radius, mill a lengthwise slot in the rod taking out a quarter section, 3 or 4 inches from the end. This is for the shavings. These bits go slow requiring many in and outs to clean chips, but they don't wander.

Have fun and good luck.

CK,
I've got access to a Bridgeport to do the work. Your suggestion to use a gundrill is genious IMO. I'm amazed that it hasn't been brought up in the other numerous threads I've seen on drilling stocks. All that 'brace n bit' stuff aint for me. I'm very familiar with gundrills but hadn't thought of it till you mentioned it. Making one should be a snap. I've made other drill types and special pitch taps in the past.

In my case, I don't have to drill too far. Just have to go from the glueline to the bottom of the lightening pocket, then I'll pilot the counterbore on the hole and c'bore down to that blue line.

Claire is right on. Shown is a 3/8" deep hole (gun) drill made from a 36" length of drill rod. This one has an extension to 44" for drilling ramrod holes. I've been using it for decades.

This is the cutting end.

And this is the 3/4" counterbore you need to go with the drill. This is with a 1/4" semi-floating pilot, I also have a 3/8" pilot.
I through drill with the lathe between centers. Both ends of the stock blank need to be perpendicular to the hole before starting. I usually drill half way from each end.

The counterboring is done with a drill motor and an extension.
Steve
BTW, I'd think about drilling the hole first, then fitting the transplant to align with the existing hole. You might be able to use a draw bolt to suck the two together for fitting.

That piloted counterbore is clever. Very cool. Is it something you designed?

GJZ, Truth is, I don't remember. More than likely, someone suggested it and this is what I came up with.
Steve

I just finished going through an assortment of Gunmaker magazines and in the Nov./Dec. '89 issue is a story detailing how to make one of those tools. Again, very clever.

Stephen,
The angle of the glueline is such that the drawbolt is at a shallow angle to the glueline. I ended up clamping the glue joint like this.



Since my graft is stuck already, I'm planning to mill out the lightening pocket first on the mill and then drill from the head to the bottom of the pocket.

Chuck,
I followed your original post with much interest, and at that time I thought I might have drilled the hole first, and set-up the tenon angles to match the hole angle. But I'm used to drilling first, and thankfully, have enough to do around here without getting in to repairing stocks. (I'm rust bluing a two barrel set for a custom project at the moment.)
I do look forward to seeing the results after drilling. You don't have much drill depth to go with the way you have set it up.
Think I hear the water boiling....
Steve

Another advantage is that you can often get very short pieces of exhibition walnut for very low prices.

I have a back action hammergun double rifle in .577 bpe that has 3 7/8" drop at heel. Is this method a viable alternative to getting a 2 1/4" drop versus a complete restock? If so, can anyone recommend someone to do it? I really don't have the time. Thanks

Yea, Mike, this is an obvious solution. BTW, there's a machinist guy in California that seems to have a degree of expertise in doing these things. Why not offer him one of those fixer-upper project guns you mentioned to me not so long ago as an incentive to take on another butt transplant? He seems the type to bite, IMO.

Great suggestions by Stephen and others. I had just had to re-drill a stock that come off a duplicating machine when the operator did'nt "drill first".

Chuck, I use a Foerstner bit for the first go-round. They tolerate uneven grain very well and dont wander either. Not a bad choice for making lightening cuts too, as they can be used to overlap another hole.

I find aniline dyes work very well to manipulate and match dissimilar stock woods. They dont muddy-up the figure like the particulate suspension in stains. They come in a variety of colors and compatability; I use alcohol or water-based inintially on bare wood then blend some oil-soluable in the finish coats for an alkenat root-type appearence.

Have fun and good shooting,

C. K.