I'd agree that you need to strip the action before case hardening. But good luck trying to remove the old type compensating screw that requires a face spanner. Especially if you think you absolutely have to case harden the action in a week. I've had some that took 5-6 months to move without doing damage to the gun or the compensating screw, after lots of heating, cooling, vibration, and really long penetrating oil soaks with really good penetrating oil. Even the later slotted compensating screws can be a real bear to remove. And as I've said many times before... Kroil is not a good penetrating oil. I don't think it's one bit better than straight diesel fuel.
The little tits on your face spanner, even if made from very good steel, just won't take as much torque as a good full screwdriver blade. If you destroy the compensating screw by rushing to remove it, good luck finding another... assuming you don't also gall the threads in the action knuckle. I'd bet you just won't find another compensating screw without buying a junk action. And then you're right back where you started hoping that one comes out easily. The threads are a non-standard bastard size, and the ones I've measured have a very slight tapered thread. So don't think the solution is to just grab the drill and E-Z outs. Replacement firing pin bushings for L.C. Smith's are available. Lefever compensating screws or firing pin bushings... forget about it.
Me... I'd rather have a gun with no case colors than one that ends up in the scrap box.
I'd be interested to hear if the firing pin bushing that Travis destroyed during the removal was split.
