The pin is a very tight fit. Driving it out requires a steel punch placed down in the bottom of the screw thread hole and a decent hammer to knock it out.
Putting it all back together is usually a little easier as the parts are cleaned up from old grease & oil, ect. But they are still a drive fit.
A large brass punch on the pin w/a very thin pece of leather so as not to ding the surface. Again that decent size hammer,,,,and the action well supported in a bench vise.
I've used Delrin/Nylon drift pinches and they work OK and deffinetly won't mark the surface of that pin,,but I just don't like the lightweight feel to them for this.
When disassembling, I place a small witness mark on the pin under the removed screw to indicate 12'oclock.
That helps in reassembly to get the pin back in the right rotational allignment so that the screw 'qualifys' when tightened up.
Even then I sometimes have to tap the pin back out and turn it a degree or two to get the screw slot just right when tight.
Coming to you disassembled you will probably have to go thru the latter of adjusting the pin placement till the screw slot qualifys for you.
But it's not a difficult thing to do, just takes a little time and the result is a big difference in the final appearance of the project.
