Thank you, Stan. I will consider this all carefully.
I read the thread about the repair technique used, and it's along the lines of what I was going to do, except I was going to drill and tap for a threaded rod, rather than solder. Locktite would hold them in place, and I could make a few pairs in the event that they needed to be replaced again. One significant difference in my plan was drilling through ejector, and then cleaning up the outer surface, and that seems to be the bad part of my plan from what I'm gathering. I suppose because it would weaken the ejector?
Drilling through would require tig welding to hide the hole, then dressing off to try and hide what you've done. Just a bad idea, IMO. Much better to silver solder the pin into the hole you drilled, just not all the way through the ejector blade. Silver solder is a good deal stronger than soft solder, which is used on the ribs. It will hold the pin forever, if done properly. Really much easier than threading the end of the pin, then tapping the hole in the ejector. Also, if you don't carefully turn a shoulder on the pin, when you snug it down it may "cock" itself to one side and not be true to the pin hole. Better to use the hole as a jig to keep it all aligned perfectly, I think.
My repair that I described in the link I posted for you is all but indistinguishable from an original ejector. Your way might end up that way, too, but with much more effort, it seems to me.
SRH
