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Old No7 Offline OP
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My first post on this site...

This post wouldn't be possible without the support I got from two members of the GCCA (the German Gun Collectors Association) as they provided me with the instructions (and the confidence) to attempt the review and repair of the Cocking Indicator Pins on my Blitz triggerplate (aka "Blitzschloss") Drilling.

Following the instructions I got, the action was easily disassembled and the triggerplate was removed.

Here you see the 3 cocking indicator pins secured to the top of the action using hollow screws with a small shoulder, that look to me like drilled-out percussion nipples (without the cones on top):




Here are the 2 shotgun pins, one was polished by me and the other is just as it came from the 75+ year old action. Don't mix them up, as they are different lengths, but I noted that both the pins and screws were marked with either 1 or 2 small lines to keep them as a set:




In the next image, you will see that some solder was added to the left shotgun and center rifle cocking pins. These aren't "stressed parts" per se, but they will be in the Drilling when it's fired. However, I was impressed that I could take a file to the rifle's lengthened pin and shape it -- and not remove the solder. So it's on there pretty well. I can't say for sure how it will hold up or for how long the solder repairs will last, but if it fails, I'll have someone weld metal on top and shape that; but at least I'll have much better dimensions to work with after this first attempt did work -- well partially, that is....

I used the word "partially" as this image shows the positioning of the rifle's cocking pin isn't quite where it needs to be to fully engage the rounded top of the rifle barrel's hammer; maybe 3/32" more forward would have worked out better, but I can't change that -- nor do I want to do anything to alter the top of the rifle's hammer.




Well it turns out that I can't simply add a larger "button" on the rifle pin as it sits in-between the two shotgun hammers; so I'm thinking that I will need to add a reversed "L" shaped leg (bottom part facing forward) to the rifle's cocking pin, made of brass and soldered onto the existing pin, which will extend ~3/32" or so more forward to better engage the rifle hammer as it's cocked. But as all the round pins can turn, then I'd need to make some type of a guide that won't interfere with any hammers but will prevent the forward-facing "L" from rotating out of position. Hmmm... Sounds complicated, but doable...

But then I couldn't leave well enough alone... (Plus I enjoy the challenge of DIY repairs on older guns.)

So after thinking some more on it today, I was pretty sure the solder would just not last... So...

So I carefully peened the bottom end of the left shotgun barrel's indicator pin, which lengthened it by about 0.040"; and then I also peened the button of the rifle barrel's pin (amazingly, the solder I had added on that part held through all of that hammering!) and then I reshaped it with a file so it had more surface area to the front than before, and...

It works!!! wink

Here the 2 pins are when cocked: L shotgun (rear trigger) at front left, and rifle at center rear:




And here they are after the triggers are pulled:




At some future point, I may slightly adjust the lengths of those pins, but I'm much happier with this now than before I'd started, when 2 of the pins had no visible movement at all.

Now I'll focus my energies on final fitting of a 1.5-6X Hensoldt-Wetzlar scope and get it sighted in -- as the lead .32 cal bullets I'd ordered should be here later this week.

I'll post a Range Report some day in the future. Thanks for looking.

Old No7


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Old No7
Great,
Mike

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Thanks for sharing that Old No.7, and welcome on your first post!

It isn't clear to me why the two shotgun cocking indicator pins would have such different lengths??? I wonder if the three pins or their retainers got mixed up at some point in the past, or if they were replaced with pins from another gun?

At any rate, they look pretty simple, and I think it would be a very simple lathe turning project to just make new pins of the correct dimensions rather than removing solder and building up with weld or brazing on extensions.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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Old No7 Offline OP
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Dang it...

The solder repair of the rifle's cocking indicator pin failed after a few dry fires (using snap caps).

Oh well, now to look for a more permanent solution...

Old No7


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I agree with Keith- any compentent machinist-lathe hand- and 1018 steel rod turned to oal and dia from originals-- solder won't work, as you discovered- nice project however- Der Fuchs


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Old No7,
Since you are going to rework the pins, anyway, it would be helpful to size them to be "flush" with the action in the "fired"( hammer forward) condition. Even though I'm not a big fan, this should make them easier to fit and they would be more useable by "feel" in the dark.
Mike

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Old No 7,

Check your PMs

WBLDon

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Old No7 Offline OP
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Here's an update on this project...

I haven't gotten to spend too much time on this these summer months, but I do plan to file/polish the two shotgun indicator pins so they are flush after firing.

For the rifle's pin, it still appears to be located too far behind the curved top of the rifle's hammer (see the images above) to make good contact. I can add some mass to the pin, but it has to align with the hammer and can't be too wide -- due to the fact the pin can rotate in its holder.

Looking at the 1st image up above earlier today, I noted the rod for the rifle selector button/rear sight that runs along the top of the action...

My plan is to fabricate an extended button head "with legs", so the extended head of the pin fully contacts the rifle hammer, but the back two legs run parallel to the rifle selector rod -- thus always keeping the extended button head aligned with the hammer.

Here's a crude drawing of how it could work.............



Will it work???

Only time will tell, but at least now I have a plan!

Old No7


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Great detailed pictures and I'm sure you will get things straightened out.


David



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