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Joined: Feb 2004
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Dan,
I can remember for sure but, it seems to me, that you can pull the inertia weight along with the transfer bar by slipping the retaining clip off the safety switch and removing the safety assembly, then remove the "C" clip from the pin holding the clevis on to the fitting that attaches to the back of the frame, push the pin all the way up and slide the clevis off. You may have to hold the weight back and the transfer bar up.

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DeeKay Offline OP
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Chuck, I think you are right. It was getting late last night and I decided to call it a night. It did look as though I would need to take the safety switch off so the pin could be moved up and out. I just could not see how the safety thumb switch would come off. I need to get out my stronger glasses. It should help knowing a clip needs to come off first. I'll take another look when I get a chance and let you know how I do. I appreciate all you help, Dan

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DeeKay Offline OP
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I worked on this for a while this afternoon. Since it was snowing, I gave myself a vacation day. I took off the safety switch and expected the pin on the clevis to make it up through the hole for the saftety switch so I could remove the weight and the transfer bar, but it did not. The pin hits the edge of the hole and there is no wiggle room to get it out. I did notice that the transfer bar is spring-loaded downward, so that is ok. I am fairly certain about the reason the transfer bar will not switch from left to right after a shot, and that is that the slide under the weight is cocked slightly out of perpendicular when the lever is switched ot the left side. That is why the weight binds a little and does not swing forward. The selector switch does not have a the button on it. If I fire the left barrel and then stick a straight pin in the hole in the selector switch shaft and turn it ever so slightly, I can hear the weight shift forward, and then the right barrel will fire. If I could get the weight assembly off, I might be able to fix it, but it appears I would have to take off the bottom plate and I don't want to do that without some directions. Even then, it might be gunsmith time. Dan

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Dan,
To remove the triggerplate from the frame, my recollection is that the rollpin in the lower corner of the frame needs to come out, then the screw from the top tang unscrews.

But, there's a shortcut. You need to backup the weight with a wood block (with a hole for the rollpin at the top) and drive that rollpin out that connects to the top clevis. Just make sure the weight is supported and you don't load the clevis sideways when driving the rollpin out. An extra set of hands helps with this kind of thing.

But before you go to all this trouble, check to see if the transfer bar is hitting the trigger blades when it should slide forward after the first shot. Possibly, the trigger has some debris under the front stop that is causing it to be slightly aft and thus raising the trigger blades in the path of the transfer bar. Just a theory of mine at this point. You may have to remove the trigger to clean out the trigger stop. If so, the triggerplate has to come off. But, a spray cleaner with a tube may work.

Last edited by Chuck H; 02/23/08 12:20 AM.
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DeeKay Offline OP
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Well, I am glad to say I have the problem solved. I got to thinking that the missing barrel selector button might hold the part that slides left to right under the weight more tightly in its slot, keep it perpendicular, and therefore let the parts slide forward freely. I found a nylon washer and a steel washer and put them on the shaft for the barrel selector and found a pin to secure them. Now the hammers fire correctly no matter which one is selected first. I'll keep a look out for a source for the correct selector button. Thank you for the suggestions and the pictures. Dan

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Parts are only available from Western Gun Parts http://www.westerngunparts.com/

You need to call them to place the order and check to see if they have the part. They don't have all parts for the BSS. The diagram above shows the selector as P082737. You can provide the number to them on the phone and have them verify what the part is before ordering.

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Thanks Chuck for the parts source. I'll call them. Dan

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