doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Off face Parker Hammer gun

When the gun is closed it moves more up and down more than in and out. I can put .003 and .004 (which is a little tight) in the space between the barrels and standing breach.

When I put a .002 thick piece of oiled paper on the hook and put the gun back together it seems to lock up tight with no vertical movement of the barrels.

I originally thought it was the bolt but after doing the above suggestion from SKB it looks like it is the hook. I am a bit unsure about shimming the hook but I don't think it will do any harm.

On another note, I have a friend who is an auto body man and is quite gifted with a mig welder. He wants to look at the hook tomorrow. I usually see tig welders discussed here. Would there be a problem with a mig welder doing this work?

The problem you have with any welding is the dissipation of the heat affecting the soldered ribs, barrels, hook etc. IF you place steel bars in the barrels, steel blocks adjacent to the welding area to act as heat sinks and perhaps wrap the barrels with a wet rag you SHOULD be okay.It really depends on the welders skill if he gets it set up properly and just runs a bead cleanly and efficiently you will be okay.Remember to prevent welding spatter with Mig. He'll know what to do.Good luck.

I always heard a bit of a gap between the two flats[bbl & action]was a good thing, and that Guns were built this way,
franc

You'd be crazy to use a MIG welder. It 'could' work but it's like using a coal shovel to feed a kid his oatmeal. I wouldn't let him within 10 feet of a Parker with it.

He agrees with you Greg. Back to shims. We did have a good time stripping it down competely, cleaning it up and seeing where the wear is. It could last another 100 years but no doubt some repairs on the worn parts in the next fifty years will be required.

Franc, I think a .003 shim will leave .006 between the barrels and the water table.

You can curl feeler gauge spring steel just the same way you curl a ribbon with a pair of scissors--take a metal straightedge, hold the feeler blade flat against it with your thumb, and pull the straightedge out along the feeler blade. It will curl right up, and you can cut it with a pair of scissors to fit. The harder you push the tighter the curl. I have never had any luck gluing them in place. Instead, I just seat them against a drop of gungrease and leave the gun together. Dont know about the watertable play--never had it.

Thanks for the trick LP. I will try that tomorrow.

The MIG is WAY too hot for this job. Take the forend off and hold the barrels down on the watertable and see if there is any movement back and forth. I suspect there is none .The English guns quite often get loose first in the locking bolt in my experience

I did as you suggested. No more back and forth movement. Noticed I could push the locking bolt from the rear. Was able to push it almost an 1/8". When I do it is tight and a .002 feeler gauge gets stuck between the breech and the barrels. The lever is a bit left of center and there is wear on all the parts related to the bolt. I don't think there is any way to make up for the wear on the small moving parts but it seems that if I add material to the bolt or the slot in the lump I could then file it down until it works correctly. Is it easier to do the slot?