doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Best way to Clean Wood

I just bought an older double and the wood is pretty dirty. I do not want to refinish, just want to clean it up so the grain snd checkering stand out better. Suggestions? After cleaning, what is best to use to protect? Some oil or just wax it?

Thanks again!

Steve

Hi Steve,
I'd try some Murphy's Oil Soap(or something similar) and warm water, a toothbrush for the checkering. It may clean up surprisingly well. Some linseed oil(boiled, I think) after. JL

I'd use a 50/50 mixture of linsed oil and turpentine. As suggested above, use a soft toothbrush in the checkering. The linseed/turpentine is an excellent method for cleaning antique furniture. It will not damage the existing finish but will disolve the dirt which can then be wiped off with a clean cloth. Go easy. Finish with a good paste wax. One that is tinted brown will hide many fine scratches.

Glad Steve brough this up. Several questions:
We were told Murphy's Soap would damage the finish on our oak floor?
How about Old English Lemon Oil?
Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen & Conditioner?
What brand of paste wax would you suggest?
Thanks to all.

I use like Jim does, the Murphy Oil soap wash. I have known of more than one old 100yr. old house that had all of the original wood work cleaned with Murphy Oil soap to remove years of crud. Like anything, I am sure,moderation is a a sensible approach. Either in the amount you use or the way you scrub. Anyrate, it has always worked good for me. If the finish looks good after the cleaning, I will then use the Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen. I wouldn't want to rub the crud into the wood though before I cleaned the wood.

Thanks Dave, my 'youngest' SxS is 84 so no concern about them new fangled plastic finishes

Steve
Most of the time when I get an old sxs I remove all the metal parts and soak the old finish off with acetone (Wonko's brew). It's so easy to do and it cleans up the stock very well, even pulling oil staining out from around the action. After the old finish is removed it's easy to give it a quick rub down with steel wool (it's best to do this after putting the metal back on so as not to round the wood at the metal/wood joints). Then you have a wonderfully prepared finish to refinish (I know there's better products but I've found Tru-oil looks nice, you just have to rub the last coat down with 0000 steel wool to cut the gloss). Anyhow, that's what I would do if I were cleaning up your gun.
I love .410's, how about posting a few pictures.
Steve

Steve, just so you know, here is Wonko's method:


" The Brew -- actually two successive soaks
Forum: The gunshop.com Double Gun BBS
Re: Question for Zaphod on stripping a stock............(more) (Don Nolan)
Date: Mar 01, 13:45
From: JohnM

There have been repeated request for this on various BBS's. I had occasion to rewrite it, cause I couldn't find my file. So, if any of you have mislaid this useful little procedure, here 'tis:
The "Wonko the Sane" method for stripping oilsoaked gunstocks and finishes

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Foreword from JohnM:

My training in antique furniture repair is as conservator -- the most preservation with the least damage. Regarding the restoration of military relics and old guns, an Enfield BBS discussion about "sacrilege!" defined exactly, that there is a fine dividing line between (1) stabilizing the decline of the object, (2) achieving and preserving a stable, well-cared for appearance that doesn't obliterate the object's history, and (3) "Ooopsie! It's really frigged up now. Kiss the history and value goodby!".

A lot of what you do depends on the object itself: how bad is it and is it getting worse? What then, is your restoration goal? How will you achieve it without going past it? I see a great deal of merit for a good, nondestructive cleaning of wood and metal. Excess amounts of petroleum oil are particularly destructive to stock wood. A useful substance for an overall cleaning, found here in the 'States is called D&L Hand Cleaner. [This is NOT conservation approved by the twinkle-toed museum set, BTW! ;~`)]

"D&L" is a nonabrasive, stiff white jell, that is sold in a widemouth can at autoparts stores for hand cleaning. Do NOT try to use the orange, gritty stuff or other pumice and abrasive hand cleaners. The homogenized petroleum solvents, detergents, and surfactants in the D&L will get a LOT of crud off. I'd be interested to hear of it's effect on old cosmoline, should anyone want to try it. Rinse with common paint thinner and rub dry.

For the most severe cases, I think the following procedure { WONKO's } is the least destructive, but the most complete: because -- the oven cleaner, dish washer, sandpaper and steel wool, et. al. are all much harder on the wood and historic surfaces and they all have some failings. I will be very happy to correspond with folks who try this, as an old military rifle provides the greatest cleaning challenge of which I'm aware, so far as pure grease, grime, dirt, soaked in petroleum [wood-eating!] oil, and excessive finish.

I cribbed this off the Shooting Sportsman board a couple of years ago, posted by a now-departed fellow named "Wonko the Sane" Hope it proves useful. Save as a word doc, because I won't. ;~`). This is more or less as i remember it. Any rudeness must certainly be mine. ;~`)

THE METHOD:

Go to the hardware store [or chemist, for the Brit's] and buy a gallon of acetone and a gallon of denatured alcohol. It's relatively cheaper than retail paint strippers.


~~~~~~~~~~~~WARNING~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DANGER!!!: READ THIS NOW!
The stuff BLOWS UP if you assist it to do so.
Don't make sparks, smoke 'whatever',place by hot water heaters and furnaces or otherwise make it go boom. OK?

It's the READER'S responsibility NOW.
Don't kill your family by fire, just because you won't care enough to read and heed prominently posted warnings regarding the use and storage of potentially hazardous articles. Also, use good VENTILATION: the furnace room in wintertime is a poor place to be doing this. You need some fresh air circulation.


NOTHING PERSONAL!
WHY this method? It's prob'ly the SAFEST METHOD I know of, given the few elementary precautions to be followed. The materials have a relatively low toxicity rating (TLV - Threshold Limit Value). They are safer to handle and use, chemically speaking, then most retail strippers. AND they do a great job with virtually zip work by you. From a preservation standpoint, it leaves the wood undamaged.

BEGIN:
You need (1) a big, cheap FUNNEL from the auto parts store. You should have a batch of (2) nitrile or latex GLOVES -- pinch 'em from the doc or dentist; they'll just spend the money on shotguns anywayz. (3) a pair of safety glasses or GOGGLES -- y'all can figure that one out, right? You need (4) a PAN made of stainless steel, or porcelain, or other non-reactive material which is big enough to hold the wood from which you wish to remove the oil/and or finish. Find something that won't dissolve in the acetone for (5) a tight COVER [no plastics]. Plywood cut to shape and held down with a brick or spring clamps work.

Ideas: The funnels are useful for pouring things about. Paint strainers (paint store or hardware where you got the solvents) help keep the gunk out of the cleared solvents by putting them in the funnels when you do the pouring. The gloves keep the stuff from being absorbed thru yer hide.

First: Put the stock wood in the pan and carefully pour acetone over it, until it is generously covered. Put on the lid. Turn the floating wood over in a couple of days. Again. Leave it for a week, total. The finish should be pretty much gone. Take the wood out and pour off the acetone into a container, where all the gunk will settle to the bottom in a week or so. Pour the clear acetone back in the can it came in. Reuse it as needed.

Second: Now put the wood back in the clean pan and cover it with Alcohol. Same drill for a week. The wood should now be clean right down in every li'l pore, and suitable for glassing the stock head, repairing cracks, applying new finish, and the rest. The alcohol can be cleared by precipitation and time, same as before, and reused.

Last: I like to take some clean alcohol and a small natural bristle brush to scrub up the piece, directly I pull it out. Then, rinse and dry with a clean towel. No sanding needed; the wood should be smooth as....[a baby's butt!;~`)]... could be. It preserves the stamped markings and doesn't raise the grain; or rarely, very little.

HELPFUL STUFF:
Sometimes, rarely, this won't clean stuff the first time. [NOTE: Wonko had never tried old SMLE's, so it may take a couple of soaks, indeed!!!] If ever it doesn't look as though the finish let go into the acetone, the first time, drain it off. Give it another week of fresh acetone. This is also useful for really deeply soaked-in gun oil. Then use the alcohol soak, same as above. No, or very, little sanding needed, the wood will be smooth.
Go from there -- Then say thanks to St. Wonko the Sane. Sacrifice some flyers in his memory, [He was a pigeon-ring shooter] , and put on the finish of your choice. I've heard clarified yak butter is the traditional thing, on the Himalayan rock pigeon circuit. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "

JC(AL)

If you just want it clean...orange oil from a wood working store. They also sell a "white" pad that looks like a sponge or a scotch type pad that has about no abrasive content. Gentle and won't harm the original finish. Smells pretty good too. If you want to remove the finish that is a whole new ball game.

Last time we rounded this buoy, the concensus was leaning towards Kramer's Best Antique Improver, http://www.kramerize.com/Introduction.htm

They won't ship to Australia unfortunately, otherwise I would have tried it myself by now. Sounds perfect!