doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Parker Bros Hammer 10 gauge

I saw this gun today on consignment at my local gunshop. From the Parker site I found that it was made in 1888. What I would like to know is what cost do I need to expect to spend if I choose to have the gun refurbished? Before we all blow a gasket with this question let me explain the gun. 10 gauge-top lever has a curve at the end(very cool) double triggers no safety-# 2 stamped on the reciever-quails/partridges on the left sideplate-ducks in flight on the right-turkeys on the bottom with mountains in the background-misc scroll work- 32"damascus barrels. OK, there is not much detail in the damascus pattern there are no dings or dents,(the barrels are what makes the gun look its age, there is no cracks around the sideplates(doesn't look like they were ever removed)-the wood is beautiful(which does not start to descibe it)-checkering is worn pretty smooth,forearm has a metal tip and release lever.I think this gun would be outstanding with having only the barrels and wood done. I have never purchased a gun that needs restored so I would value some of your opinions. Asking price is $1000. Thanks Tom

I'd probably buy it at that price. The fact that it has no safety will cause certain Parker collectors (I am not among them) to go weak in the knees as they imagine just who might have held that gun.

Dear Sweep,

I just paid $1630 for a hammer, P grade, 10 gauge, 3 frame, 32" barrels, 45% CASE, 85% blue. I was pleased with the price. The $1000.00 D sounds good.

Phil

Exactly what do you mean by "No Safety". Are you referring to a seperate trigger block safety or does it have neither a safety notch or rebounding safety built into the tumblers?.

It is a hammer gun, so it wouldn't have a traditional thumb safety as found on most hammerless guns, correct?

Right you are.

"...turkeys on the bottom with mountains in the background..." I've never seen that on a Parker. Turkeys? Mountains? I'd buy it just for that. As far as the outside of the barrels, just wipe them down with Hoppes or your favorite solvent and the pattern should emerge, albeit probably brown. You can also apply oil and let the brown stuff soften and wipe down. If the bores are nice and the action on face, buy it.

There is no safety behind the lever opener. This is the first hammer gun I have ever considered buying. So, I am feeling kind of silly/stupid now that I think of it. Do hammer guns generally have a safety like the hammerless doubles or are the uncocked hammers the safety? Please excuse my lack of knowledge. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for the replies.
Tom

There is no mechanical safety on a hammer gun. Think of your trigger finger as the safety.

Tom,

Just to be safe you should still carry the gun with barrels broken. When you first start using a hammer gun, there is tendency to cock both hammers as you bring the gun up to your shoulder, which is fine. The problem is that if you only fire 1 barrel, you can forget that you have to decock the second hammer. Once you get used to that, they are pleasure to shoot.

I have come to prefer hammer guns. This one sounds like a gem. For the price, you can not go wrong.

Pete

Doh...didn't notice it was a hammer gun.

Tom,
Take a look at Keith Kearcher's web site. He has a reputation for working on Parkers and damascus barrels. He can probably provide you with a good idea of what things need to be checked out and associated costs.

http://members.toast.net/keithkearcher/

Sweep;
Not that familar with Parker hammer guns, but suspect by 1888 they would have been using what are referred to as rebounding locks. On these locks with the hammers down they do not quite contact the firing pins, even with the pins fully retracted into the breech. Pushing upon the hammer with your thumb will reveal it canot be pushed forward onto the F-pin "Unless" the trigger is pulled. While admitting that "Safety" is largely the "Operator Factor" my personal belief is the rebounding locks are the safest type of hammer guns, & "Personally" if carrying one of these afield, I cary it loaded, hammers down & gun closed & securely bolted. If carrying any gun open be absolutely certain it has an adequate Check Hook, many didn't, though I suspect the Parker did.

If this is circa 1888 it should be a Fifth Variation "type b" (1882-1917) with a dolls head extension on the top rib. Even though Titanic Steel barrels were introduced in the 1890's, these damascus hammer doubles were popular right up to WWI. The curved "fish tail" top lever is very "cool" and has appeared on high grade hammerless models too. It's thought that the design was to provide clearance between the lever and the right hammer when opening. Not seen on any other doubles (American, English or European) of any era to my knowledge. I think the asking price is reasonable...I'd buy it if I were you.

2-piper,

Parker top lever hammergun locks are rebounding. The rebound is is powered by the firing pin spring. If the firing pin spring is absent or broken the hammer will not rebound to the safe position. Try pulling the trigger on an uncocked hammer, and push the hammer forward. You'll see the effect of the firing pin spring.

Phil

Phil;
Thanks for the clarification. Have seen a number of Parker hammer guns over the years but never personally owned one & had never really checked out their function. Had not run into this use of the firing pin spring as the rebound before, but should work fine.

Thank you all for your relpies. I checked Keiths site. I went back to the gunshop to buy the gun and found that someone had put $100 down on it. So, he has 1 week to pick up the gun or it will be for sale again and I should have 1st chance for it. I'll let you know how things turn out. Thanks again for the reponses.
Tom

Well I have waited a long time but I finally was able to purchase the gun.I am a little confused on the grade it is though. I figured out 1888, and Phil you are correct about the hammer/firing pin springs. When pushing on the hammers nothing happens but when you pull the triggers the firing pins move in and out.
As to what grade it is any help is appreciated. I can take some pictures tomorrow but am embarressed to say I can't post them. I can email but can't post yet.Anyway the desciption is as follows scroll and partridges on the front left sideplate with scroll on the hammer and the back of the sideplate. Sroll and flying ducks on the right sideplate with the same scroll on this hammer and back of plate. Those turkeys and mountains in a circle with scrollwork around it. Light scroll on the trigger gaurd and top lever and reciever. The barrel flat/ there is a D, above it to the right is a C, there is a 4 and just above that is 11. Then the patent dates. One April 76 the other is June 78. o2 on the lug. The reciever has a 2 and below it is the serial# 54879pat March 16 1875 and April 11 1876 and Sept 3 1872. ( I checked the Parker site and was thinking that this gun should have a skeleton buttlate. But it has nicely figured wood and a hard rubber buttplate. Could this be a C or D grade?) Does this all sound correct? Sorry about the long post
Thanks Tom

You describe a #2 Grade and the serialization book says it is a #2 Grade. This is also referred to later as a G Grade although in early hammer guns and ten gauges, some other designations were used in catalog descriptions if not stamped on the gun.

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Here are the pictures that Sweep sent:































He asks several questions:

This is my first hammer as I said in the post and I don't know anything about them. Where there many of these guns made and that sort of information.

Is there a book you would suggest about Parkers.

I wouldn't mind having them redone but don't want to hurt the value of the gun if it has any.

Sweep,

I am not a Parker collector. We have some very knowledgeable people here who will hopefully answer your questions. I am glad to post the images for you. I will leave them up for a few weeks...

Pete

Thank you Pete for posting the pictures for me. The gun seems to be in good working condition.But I will get it checked. I would like the gun to look a bit nicer if possible. There is considerable dulling on the reciever and the barrels don't have much design on them. The wood I think would look really nice with some light cleaning. But; I don't want to do something stupid and have someone say later when I'm not the owner/caretaker for it anymore, just shake their heads and say; I wonder what he was thinking? Is there some opinions of what could be done to spuce it up or would just sending to someone like Keith for a good cleaning be sufficient? Or get it checked and leave it as it is? I'm sure alot of you have been through this before and I would like to learn from you and your experiences.
Thanks Tom

I appologize for bringing this back to the top. But do any of you Parker guys know what the letters and numbers on the barrel flats of this gun mean? Is the D damascus? What would the C be? And what does the 4 and small 11 mean? Also what would be the best Parker book to buy?
Thanks

Check the 'Watertable & Flat proofs' under 'Technical Information' here http://www.parkergun.org/
Yes, D is damascus
4 11 is the pre-fit and finish brl weight