doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Re-cutting old checkering

Daryl,

It is true that a lot of guns have flats in the checkering. It is also true that lots of them dont. I did not intend to imply that every checkering pattern is taken so far as to point up the diamonds.

To point up or not to point up is going to depend on the gun, the current state and level of originality desired.

Many of the older guns I have checkered were done as described, starting with a 60 degree tool and finishing with a 90 degree tool and left with nice consistent flats, just as new. The 60 degree tool would not have cut to the proper width without cutting way deeper than appropriate. If the appropriate treatment is just a narrow scribed line a 60 degree tool alone could be all you need.

It is also not unreasonable to refinish wood and rechecker a favorite gun (that is not a rare collector item) to a better than new condition. That is the owners perogative.

Bill, one day I'll get a couple of bent files and try them. Lots of guys like them....

John, I always loved the feel of nice sharp checkering in the hand, but I've got a couple of old blue collar workhorses that convinced me that no checkering is a fine thing too. Here is one I removed the (crappy) checkering from to get it back to the way it left the factory

Example:



Jeff




Jeff

Get all the crud out of the old checkering that you can. It really dulls tools fast. Figure 75 years of dried finish and grit is like a fine sand paper on the tools. Dull tools will get away from you before you know it. Buy several checkering heads and do not be afraid to replace them. A few dollars is not a big deal when you get right down to it.

Do understand that if you redo the checkering you will know and see every mistake you make for as long as you own and shoot the gun. Humbles even the best job but that OK. As was pointed out before every job has a few mistakes which you will find when you do the job over again. Lets face it the person before you had a lot more experience than you do and he still made a few mistakes.

When it comes to flat checkering I use a very fine toothed hacksaw - I think it is about 64 teeth per inch - which can be purchased in a hobby store, to deepen the lines. Then just a touch with a 60 degree fine tool to blunt the sharp edges, does a great job and gives checkering about as flat as possible. I like the effect as this style does not hide the wood underneath and yet gives the stock a finished look. As the teeth at the tip dull you can grind the blade to a fresh set and away you go, a lot cheaper than wearing out your checkering tools. The blade can also be used to straighten out a problem line. --- John S.

Jim, I've re-cut checkering on about 8 guns. I don't have or use a vice. I use only 2 60 degree tools, a long head for the middle of the lines that I push to cut, and a short tool for the edges when you are close to the borders, which I pull to cut with. I use one strong light at a bit of an angle (experiment to see where you get the best view) and I put on 2 (!!, yes, it works great) pairs of reading glasses at a time which gives great flexibility and magnification at about 1 foot distance. Also cheap. Go slowly and expect to go over each line 2 or 3 times, changing directions, before you are done. The results are spectacular! Don't forget to brush in a coat or 2 of oil (I use Tru Oil) when done, wiping off the excess with a terry cloth rag. It can take some time, and literally be a pain in the neck, but the results can be beautiful.
Joe

Jim;

I guess the obvious place to start is to measure the lines per inch already on your gunstock. Go to Brownell's Inc. or Midway, USA and buy a beginner checkering set in the LPI needed. Of course buy the extra single line cutters as they will be most useful. Brownell's has a small booklet about checkering that is most helpful in getting started.

All of the comments above are valid and need consideration too. You will learn as you go and you will find that some methods don't work for you as well as they do for others. Be flexible and try other's methods and you'll find a "style" all your own that will make you proud of what you do. Just don't figure you will be perfect your first time. I have been checkering for over 20 years and still make mistakes. (Just looked up amateur in Websters..."someone who does something for pleasure, not for money...nonprofessional." Doesn't say anything about not being good at whatever it is.)
Above all else....GO SLOWLY, BE PATIENT, REST OFTEN.

Jim:

"Above all else....GO SLOWLY, BE PATIENT, REST OFTEN. "

This is the best advice! Also be careful of measured LPI's. Many older, hand cut, guns will have considerable variation in the lines per inch and multiple line cutters will give you fits on these.

The early FN guns I've checkered defied the multiple line cutters I have, must be a metric thing...

Jeff

Lots of good tips and advice here. Many thanks to all of you. This is a good place to ask for help, always.
Thanks again,