doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Re-cutting old checkering

I may get up the nerve to try to freshen up some old checkering but I don't want to make a mess of it. I'd appreciate any advice from those with successful experiences.
TIA,

You will need a fine single line cutter, a short cutter, and a magnifier hood; recommended - a jointer may prove useful and a carbide cutter works some places. A vise or stock holding fixture that has a lot of adjustments and is bedrock solid will be needed - don't even consider trying to hold the stock with one hand while you cut with the other. You will also need a strong "point source" light (high intensity or similar - never a floresecnt tube) that can be moved into various positions that will sidelight the checkering in a section. This throws one side into deep shadow so you can really see the lines. Patience - mucho patience and care going forward. If you can't/won't get these things and do it this way, then don't do it at all. It isn't hard. The most common mistakes are to try to hand hold without magnification and/or sidelight and to shortchange the tools. Oh, yeah, you can fix al/most misteaks without undue trouble as long as you catch them early. Don't be surprised to find misteaks already in the patern, too.

Buy single line tools in 60 and 90 degrees, fine teeth.
Get the 90 degree in both short and long cutting heads. The short head is for working in the tight corners, use the long heads hvery where they will fit.

Set up a light at an angle to the work, to cast shadows and make the lines more apparent. I assume you won't have a stock cradle so use a couple of bags of shot like bean bags to suport your work. If you don't load buy or borrow some.

Use the 60 degree to chase the line and clean out the groove, use the 90 to widen the groove and point up the diamonds.

Cut on the pull stroke, no real pressure. Let the tool do the cutting. Turn the wood as you cut so the head stays perpendicular to the wood on all 3 axis.

Concentrate on cutting to a uniform depth, making a light pass over all the lines then going over them again, each time getting a little deeper.

Pick a gun that you don't care if (make that when) you mess it up. A gun with 18 or 20 LPI of checkering is best for starters. Don't pick one with pressed in checkering, that the checkering is worn badly on or has oil soaked punky wood. Both will make you feel like it's an impossible task.

Patience is the most important ingredient. Checker for a short time and walk away when things start to go bad, come back to it.

Jeff

Not much to add to RM's and Jeff's stuff.
I like using dymo tape at the edges of the pattern to help avoid runovers. Buy about 3 of the fine tooth cutters, the old checkering usually has a lot of crap in the pores that will dull the cutters pretty fast. Save your dullest fine tooth cutter - it's good for a final burnishing.

Best advice: "walk away when things start to go bad" , I don't know why it's better 2 days later but it is.

Jeff, if you are redoing checkering in old guns, please don't suggest "pointing up the diamonds". Most older guns had flat checkering, unlike what we consider "good" on modern guns. The pointed up diamonds on old guns just ruins them as far as I am concerned. A 60 degree tool is the "broadest" I would use and even better is one made much finer. I can't think of a vintage gun with the checkering made with a 90 degree tool.

Daryl has it....thats the first thing that jumps out at me, next is color, two easy ways to spot a re-do.
Steve

Isn't a 60 degree tool narrower than a 90 degree tool? It will leave 60 degree peaks which are steeper than 90 degrees peaks.

I don't know of any ready made tools that will cut broader than 90 degrees. I imagine you could make 120's or so but they'd be very hard to keep in a groove.

I agree, stop when you begin to get tired and make mistakes. Go back to it after a nap.

Roughly speaking, about when do we start seeing pointed checking on American guns? I have 2 mid '30's guns that are pointed up.

A long time ago, I thought about checkering. It seemed to me that this was supposed to make a more solid control of a gun. Then I moved to these very cold mountains where it was not possible to go hunting in the winter without heavy gloves.
The thought that checkering was not very important in controlling a gun seemed to be rational.Extending this thinking led me to think that it was mostly decoration.
Then I thought some more about this.
The checkering certainly did not denigrate the control when clothed as Nanuk. But, the sharpness of said checkering did seen to have a purpose.
Northern America is far colder than Europe. More protection is necessary here than there. Sharper pointed checkering is sensible.
It seems plausible that pointed checkering evolved here when flat checkering was the norm elsewhere.
Does this make sense to you?
Best,
John

I have used one of Brownells bent files for years, it may not be the best thing but it's what I learned on and I find everything else a poor second choice. My eyes are getting a bit weak but I would not hesitate to do anything in the 20's, 30's I pass on.
bill

Daryl,

It is true that a lot of guns have flats in the checkering. It is also true that lots of them dont. I did not intend to imply that every checkering pattern is taken so far as to point up the diamonds.

To point up or not to point up is going to depend on the gun, the current state and level of originality desired.

Many of the older guns I have checkered were done as described, starting with a 60 degree tool and finishing with a 90 degree tool and left with nice consistent flats, just as new. The 60 degree tool would not have cut to the proper width without cutting way deeper than appropriate. If the appropriate treatment is just a narrow scribed line a 60 degree tool alone could be all you need.

It is also not unreasonable to refinish wood and rechecker a favorite gun (that is not a rare collector item) to a better than new condition. That is the owners perogative.

Bill, one day I'll get a couple of bent files and try them. Lots of guys like them....

John, I always loved the feel of nice sharp checkering in the hand, but I've got a couple of old blue collar workhorses that convinced me that no checkering is a fine thing too. Here is one I removed the (crappy) checkering from to get it back to the way it left the factory

Example:



Jeff




Jeff

Get all the crud out of the old checkering that you can. It really dulls tools fast. Figure 75 years of dried finish and grit is like a fine sand paper on the tools. Dull tools will get away from you before you know it. Buy several checkering heads and do not be afraid to replace them. A few dollars is not a big deal when you get right down to it.

Do understand that if you redo the checkering you will know and see every mistake you make for as long as you own and shoot the gun. Humbles even the best job but that OK. As was pointed out before every job has a few mistakes which you will find when you do the job over again. Lets face it the person before you had a lot more experience than you do and he still made a few mistakes.

When it comes to flat checkering I use a very fine toothed hacksaw - I think it is about 64 teeth per inch - which can be purchased in a hobby store, to deepen the lines. Then just a touch with a 60 degree fine tool to blunt the sharp edges, does a great job and gives checkering about as flat as possible. I like the effect as this style does not hide the wood underneath and yet gives the stock a finished look. As the teeth at the tip dull you can grind the blade to a fresh set and away you go, a lot cheaper than wearing out your checkering tools. The blade can also be used to straighten out a problem line. --- John S.

Jim, I've re-cut checkering on about 8 guns. I don't have or use a vice. I use only 2 60 degree tools, a long head for the middle of the lines that I push to cut, and a short tool for the edges when you are close to the borders, which I pull to cut with. I use one strong light at a bit of an angle (experiment to see where you get the best view) and I put on 2 (!!, yes, it works great) pairs of reading glasses at a time which gives great flexibility and magnification at about 1 foot distance. Also cheap. Go slowly and expect to go over each line 2 or 3 times, changing directions, before you are done. The results are spectacular! Don't forget to brush in a coat or 2 of oil (I use Tru Oil) when done, wiping off the excess with a terry cloth rag. It can take some time, and literally be a pain in the neck, but the results can be beautiful.
Joe

Jim;

I guess the obvious place to start is to measure the lines per inch already on your gunstock. Go to Brownell's Inc. or Midway, USA and buy a beginner checkering set in the LPI needed. Of course buy the extra single line cutters as they will be most useful. Brownell's has a small booklet about checkering that is most helpful in getting started.

All of the comments above are valid and need consideration too. You will learn as you go and you will find that some methods don't work for you as well as they do for others. Be flexible and try other's methods and you'll find a "style" all your own that will make you proud of what you do. Just don't figure you will be perfect your first time. I have been checkering for over 20 years and still make mistakes. (Just looked up amateur in Websters..."someone who does something for pleasure, not for money...nonprofessional." Doesn't say anything about not being good at whatever it is.)
Above all else....GO SLOWLY, BE PATIENT, REST OFTEN.

Jim:

"Above all else....GO SLOWLY, BE PATIENT, REST OFTEN. "

This is the best advice! Also be careful of measured LPI's. Many older, hand cut, guns will have considerable variation in the lines per inch and multiple line cutters will give you fits on these.

The early FN guns I've checkered defied the multiple line cutters I have, must be a metric thing...

Jeff

Lots of good tips and advice here. Many thanks to all of you. This is a good place to ask for help, always.
Thanks again,