doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com case hardening

I've just had a receiver color case hardened and was considering apllying a lacquer on the finished metal to protect it(What Galazan has posted). Does anyone have any recommendations? Is it worth it or not? Help!!

I think it is largely a matter of personal pref. If it was done correctly, you have a good hard surface, which was the original intent for case hardnening w/the colors being secondary, but oft quite decorative in any case, so a cosmetic design element that is/was appreciated in its own right. Unprotected use will result in a shiney almost plated finish appearance over time that is not without its own appeal and so I would say if the colors are attractive to you then protect them and if they are too muted or too vibrant for your taste then let them be worn off from use over time by not applying a protective finish or overcoat. Laquer is easily applied and just as easily removed or renewed. Too, predicated on the action/gun itself and the and the colors themselves may influence your decision. I personally think that some of the more unadorned highly polished surfaces provide the best 'canvas' for color case hardening, e.g., old field grade Elsies and with their gray fields or splotches against a muted blue finish, but the blue was bright when they were brand new and unused. Up to you to decide what has best appeal, a long way 'round to say, 'depends', but perhaps it helps in some small way to have the factors for decision making layed out.

There is a full spectrum of colors, patterns, methods and formulas and each has its proponents. Some were protected with a laquer finish being applied and others were not, only being oiled or perhaps waxed. I would THINK that a clear Varathane or one of the urathane (sp?) finishes would provide the best wearing protective finish, but it might also be much more difficult to renew. I have never tried to use it in that manner. Early cased P-guns had an attractive color, but it wore quickly. Later ones had a gloss laquer finish applied and I thot it made them look a bit cheesey, but it certainly kept them protected a bit longer ... unless one used any of the trichlor 1-1-1 cleaners like Gun Scrub or brake cleaner which instantly removed it and then the color almost disappeared before your eyes causing some to swear the colors were painted.

I have a Lefever EE that was re-cased last year and I had it lacquered. The smith who did the gun for me did the work so I could not comment on the specific product but I can tell you that I am very happy withthe results. A great look and it seems to be holding up well so far. It has only been one season but I use it nearly exclusively last season as wll as some target shooting in between. The bottom line for me is I think it looks good, protects well and you can remover it fairly eaisly if you don't like it.

Bill G.

Oscar recommended Bahlens clear laquer.

Here's a thread about protecting case colors:
http://bbs.shootingsportsman.com/viewtopic.php?t=30127

Oscar obviously had the gun disassembled when applying the Behlens spray. I would be more comfortable with a brush on application of the same stuff. There must be some benefit to lacquering case colors. I have several guns eighty or more years old with lacquer still protecting the colors. My Remington 1889, made in 1901, has almost 100% lacquer still intact.

Oscar applied TruOil on my Parker with a brush. It was his recommendation to me, at the time and of course, I agreed. That was more than 4 years ago and It still looks good. I can easily re-apply it myself, if need be. JL

Brushing lacquers are typically amber or yellow colored. True water clear lacquers are formulated differently and must be sprayed for a smooth finish.

OB

a gunsmith friend claims the Brownells " bake on lacquer " works the best - paul

Ask the people who did the case color what they used before you apply anything over it. I was told to use the Galazan case color lacquer. To mix it 50/50 with denatured alcohol and apply with an artist's sable brush. Be aware that the lacquer can run. A hot air source such as a hair blow drying gun can speed up the process.

I would use tru-oil applied very lightly. I also remember Oscar recommending clear nail polish at one point.

Pete