S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
4 members (Guy Ave, cable, Warren A, 1 invisible),
437
guests, and
6
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,500
Posts545,479
Members14,414
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19 |
I know, I know, Beretta's xtra grain looks bad, but I can't help but notice none of the pores are not filled, is there a way to fill the pores with damaging the xtra grain enhancement? [img] https://rriddell.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/[/img]
Last edited by RARiddell; 08/26/19 04:17 PM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,344 Likes: 390
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,344 Likes: 390 |
As I recall, Beretta's xtra grain is a grain enhancement process that involves chemicals and lasers to impart a fake grain pattern into the wood. Supposedly, the process has some depth into the surface of the wood, unlike typical grain enhancement or faux grain painting processes that are just applied to the surface. But I have no idea how far you could sand safely without cutting into the plain wood underneath.
I'd assume (Guessing here... zero actual experience...) that you could lightly scuff the surface with steel wool or use liquid sandpaper, and then apply coats of a grain filling finish such as polyurethane. Then you would very lightly cut this back between coats until the pores were filled, and then apply a final coat. Of course, this would involve masking the checkering, and very probably re-pointing the checkering to remove any finish that bled under the masking tape, or was damaged by sanding. In pictures of stocks with xtra grain, the fake grain runs through the checkering, so I don't know if the process is done after checkering, or if it goes deep enough that standard checkering doesn't cut through. Or perhaps the checkering is impressed. I also have no idea what Beretta used for a finish, or what kind of top-coating would be compatible with it. Sounds like a lot of uncharted waters here. But certainly someone somewhere will refinish or repair one of these, and learn what works and what doesn't.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19 |
Thanks Keith! Looks like more detective work is needed on my end!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195 |
My first thought regarding this would to leave well alone! But that is no help to any one, so I have given it a lot of thought since I read your post. Now to begin with I have never come across this type of stock enhancement and hope I never have the misfortune. though what I will say is I have repaired veneered pieces where the veneer is as thick as a cigarette paper and some wood photograph finishes. So my first piece of advice is no abrasives only the skin of your hand, hand skin is equivalent to what cabinet makers on this side of the pond call 'Crocus Paper' with the next curse grade up called "flour Paper'. Second piece of advice is polyurethane is the kiss of death for gun stocks because it is brittle with no built in flexibility for the wood's movement, it also traps in any water or water vapour that finds its way in the wood. So I would recommend using a restoration type of liquid grain filler ('Restoration' meaning it will not make a permanent change can be reversed leaving the item in the same state it was originally). A good rag application filler that works well is made from the following dark Bees wax, a few drops of Garnet French polish failing that a good pinch of Garnet Shellac flakes, Methylated spirits. The filler is Hydrated Magnesium Silicate (Talcum Powder) completely non abrasive, to adjust for colour I use Vandyke Brown Artist's oil colour. The mix is sort of experiment yourself but for a start two tablespoon's of Methylated Spirits dissolve a pea size piece of Bees wax in it add ten drops of Garnet French polish then add the Talc to form a Tooth paste type of consistency. Finally I add the colouring. Method is simple, place a little of the filler on a rag and work across the grain spreading the filler then use tour hand to smooth it into the grain. If you apply too much Methylated spirits will remove the excess, leave over night to dry then re apply until the grain is filled finally leave for a week and apply a wax polish for the final finish. The filler can be removed very quickly using Methylated Spirits also the filler hardens with age.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 31 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 31 Likes: 2 |
This won't help, but...
If you stand back 3 feet or so, it will look better!
That said...
I too have refinished guns that I didn't think looked as good "in my hands" as others thought they looked from "across the bench or room". Most came out better and I was pleased with the upgrades. But I've regretted a few attempts too, and should have left well enough alone on those.
If you feel you can refinish it -- and do it well -- then go for it. Good luck!
Old No7
Last edited by Old No7; 08/30/19 12:21 PM.
"Freedom and the Second Amendment... One cannot exist without the other." © 2000 DTH
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 404
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 404 |
why not try French polish (mix of shellac and linseed oil, pad rubbed in)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 19 |
I did the linseed oil method, why Beretta uses that method is just perplexing. I got the pores filled and gave it a nice smooth surface. It looks 100 times better than what the put on it!
|
|
|
|
|