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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Nick N. Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 12
Kutter ,
That link was actually the first time I had come across the shotgun, wanted it as soon as I saw it.
Im positive those stamps were not from the manufacturer, it looks as if a 5 year old made them and no other shattuck Ive seen has them

Joined: Jun 2019
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Nick N. Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2019
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took the barrel off using the super high tech wrench seen in the picture. I struggled to struggle to unscrew it, took at least 300 ft lbs of force. Sanded barrel in lathe (corrected uneven barrel walls) I held off sanding the last 1/2 inch for fear of rounding an edge. Screwed barrel back into breechblock and sanded that portion by hand to keep perfect fit . Ready to make wood forearm
For those wondering , the stock grain direction is not optimal for strength so I will drilling longways into the wrist and epoxying thin steel rods inside it. same effect as rebar in concrete












Last edited by Nick N.; 06/27/19 11:25 PM.
Joined: Jun 2019
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Nick N. Offline OP
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Most annoying part about this project is EVERYTHING has to be prepped together before finishing. So I decided to finish the one part I could, the trigger guard. it simply screws on so it doesnt have to be sanded in line with the other parts.

Step one: file and sand the part





Step two: go to local Walmart and get the cold blue kit. It comes with degreaser, instructions and everything you need



Step three: Throw the cold blue in the trash and order your favorite flavor of rust blue



Rust, boil, card and repeat 10 times



1 part done





Last edited by Nick N.; 06/27/19 11:45 PM.
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Nick looking awesome. What happens to be your favorite rust blue?

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Nick N. Offline OP
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Thanks!
Ive been using brownells classic rust blue with good results.
I have suspicions it is diluted muriatic acid by its yellow color.
Couple notes:
-Babysit the first coat, it forms quick so I dont like putting it in high humidity areas.
-small q tips work great , apply it lightly.
-it is slow to rust on subsequent coats which helps avoid dulling the metal.
-I typically wait overnight to boil (dont be a tightwad and use distilled water or it wont work), clean with blue scotch bright pad under water, buff using a quick pass on WORN wire wheel, finally, a few passes with a green scotch bright pad submerged in acetone helps blend, get tight areas, and degrease, I apply next coat as soon as acetone evaporates. Use long gentle strokes in the same direction with the green scotchbrite pad

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Thanks Nick.

Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 496
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I hope we haven't seen the last of this project.

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