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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,146 Likes: 1145
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,146 Likes: 1145 |
If I wanted to use a lead plug for weight in a buttstock I would pour the plug in a shotgun hull of the appropriate size, peel the hull off, dunk the plug in polyurethane, let dry thoroughly, then find the right size wood drill for a slip fit with the plug. It should never oxidize, and could be removed if necessary. I'd never pour it in place.
SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,461 Likes: 207
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,461 Likes: 207 |
What Keith said. However, I use bands cut from an innertube. If you pull the "stretch" out as you go along will build up a lot more pressure than you would think. Mike
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,850 Likes: 150
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,850 Likes: 150 |
Not all stocks with lead in them are going to crack from being filled. Might be tin instead of lead. That was commonly used in place of lead to avoid the problem of oxidation and cracking of the wood. I sometimes wondered if some of the plugs I've seen weren't a high ratio tin to lead mix as they seemed to have oxidized a bit,,turned dull grey,, but never had gone wild like some and 'grown' to split the wood or butt plate. The Win M12 3" Heavy Duck Gun has a large 'lead' plug under the pad. I wonder what they used. Those plugs always seem to be fairly shiny and w/o oxidation dispite their age and probable marsh and field use.
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7 |
Kutter that was my thoughts about milling around the plugs and then having a thinner shell hoping the wood would be a little easier to reshape and then one the cracks have been closed and glue to fil the void with something .....other than lead.
I was probably not that clear in my original post.
Thanks all
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7 |
almost a year later.
I have been de-oiling for this period of timer but today finally got on to getting the lead out. I figure removing the core of the stock may also make it a little easier for the final de-oiling.
Things are going well
I made a plywood template and jig to use a router with a bushing set up and got the stock milled out to a depth of about 2 1/2". The stub of the snapped off drill is out as well. I will be able to go about a 1/2" more with the bit I am using and will need to get a longer bit to go deeper.
I have not gotten to the bottom of the lead yet but am making good progress with leaving about 1/4" shell of the stock that should close back up pretty well once full depth is milled out.
I will [post pics once fully milled out I am going to have to fill this hollow up with something and am thinking Acra-glass. It will be a big void. Any thoughts?
Last edited by Travis S; 08/10/19 07:01 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,334 Likes: 388
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,334 Likes: 388 |
Sure, fill the void with a hardwood dowel epoxied in place. No need to waste all that epoxy. And really, no need to use the relatively expensive Accraglas on a project like this. I mentioned having the stock on a Lefever G grade split due to a solid mass of oxidized lead shot. After I cleaned it all out and repaired the split with Titebond II, I used a walnut dowel I turned to fit on a lathe, epoxied in place to fill the void. Several years later, and the repair is still great.
By the way, larger volumes of mixed epoxy often heat-up and cure very rapidly, foaming out in the process. Another reason to not fill a large void with straight epoxy.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,991 Likes: 402
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,991 Likes: 402 |
If you go with accraglass to fill the void use the gel product to fill a large void. It does not foam and cures at a very slow rate.
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7 |
I got all the lead out. There was three holes to about 4 inches deep filled with lead. I am glad to have learned form someone else's bonehead move.
I used a sharp paddle bit to get most of it out once I got the drill stub out.
What I have left is a hollowed out the stock to a depth of about 4 inches deep with 1/4" of stock wall left all the way around.
On to finishing de-oiling and will pick back up on the crack repair afterwards. If the head of the stock was not in such good shape (except for oil) I am not sure I would have done this but if successful, then a good large step in restoring/reclaiming a nice ideal grade 20 gauge LC smith.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,553 |
Good man Travis... How long are the bbs? how much (weight wise) was in the stock altogether? Must of been a couple or three oz or more? Are you going to try to get some weight back in the holes, or just wooden plugs? good luck franc
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305 Likes: 7 |
30" tubes. I recovered the ole girls from a local gun shop.
It is a labor of love and learning.
I am thinking about fabing up an aluminum housing to fit into the back of the stock/hollow that, from the outside, would look like a spacer between the stock and recoil pad but would be hollow and large enough to fill with weight as needed. I have used 1/4" alum as spacers on numerous guns and it adds a pleasant littlest amount of bling. I need 14 1/2 to 15 " of pull so it makes sense to me.
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