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Joined: Aug 2018
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Many thanks to all those who have gone before me.

The patient is a straight stock off a 20 Ga Ideal grade LC Smith. The stock will either be a boom or bust based on some issues I will post about in a separate post. For this post I wanted to stay with just the de-oiling and to share my first round progress.







The stock head was not that oiled up and in pretty good condition with only one crack on the interior of the stock and it looks easily repairable along with the bedding to come later.

First was stripping off old finish and then soaking in acetone for about an hour. This is a different stock but the process was the same.



I applied whiting paste and then into the hot box. I set the box on top of the trailer so it would get direct sunlight. The stock sat in the box along with a couple other stocks for 3 days.








Pulled the stock out, brushed and rinsed off whiting and this how far I have progressed. Not a bunch of darkening of the whiting but there was some. I am going to do it again and leave it for two weeks and then see what I get.









[img]http://i1310.photobucket.com/albums...9hfzz.jpg[/img]

Anyone seeing any kinks in my process? Not sure exactly how far to go but I think the two week sit should tell if I am done or needing more.

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"Not a bunch of darkening of the whiting but there was some."

The stock might not be as oily as you thought it was.

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Now staple that crack and treat the head with super glue...Geo

Last edited by Geo. Newbern; 09/19/18 11:26 AM.
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Sidelock
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Head crack is the easy part. My stock repair post is the challenge on this one.

Thanks All.

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Sidelock
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Update

I have two LC Smith stocks I am refinishing, one is the 20 GA above and the other is an 1987 field grade 12 GA.

The 20 Ga is still seeping brown into the whiting so I will continue with the acetone soaks and whiting coats.

On the 12 GA. The latest coat of whiting has been on for a week and has not discolored and seems to easily flake off. However when I rinse and use foaming crud cutter to get the whiting off I am still getting brown runoff in the rinse.

My questions is how clean is clean enough?

I am applying wood bleach right now but will post a few pics in a day or two after it dries.

Thanks

Travis

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Ok almost a full year later and after many acetone soaks followed by whiting I am still getting oil. I think I am going to try Damascus' electric seed propagator filled with cat litterr method and just leave it for 3 months

It is definitely getting cleaner but man what a labor of love.

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Your coating of whiting is very thin IMO. I put it on and build it up quite thick.
I mix the powder with plain alcohol instead of acetone.
It allows the slurry to set on and maybe in the wood a bit before setting up from the evaporation of the alcohol. The acetone evaporates so quickly.
The often stated reason for using acetone to further disolve oil and bring it to the surface for the whiting to absorb just doesn't make much sense to me. The acetone in the whiting slurry mix is evaporated away in a matter of a few seconds after it hits the surface.
The shell of whiting sits on the wood for days.

The whiting powder shell is quite delicate and brittle, just the nature of the stuff.

If it's not turning color,,brown, yellow or anything from it's bright white,,then it's not absorbing anything from the wood plain and simple.

If there is oil still in there it will draw and absorb it from the surface.
It is a terribly slow process but a good one. Not so good in this day and age of I want it done Now.

In between coats there is no need to rinse the whiting from the surface of the wood.
Just brush the coating off. Often you have to pick some of it out of crevices like screw countersink and deep inlet edges. Go easy so as not to damage the wood.
I use one of the Military M16 cleaning brushes. Stouter than a plain toothbrush, though that'll work OK too. The stronger M16 brush will clear more out of the grain and still not damage anything.
Air gun will clear a lot of it AFTER the initial brushing. The dust is a killer, so take precautions.
Not something to do in an enclosed area.

Recoat and rehang. Leave it and forget about it. Check back and recoat if it needs it in any areas anytime.

When you think you're done with the Whiting,,then do the rinse.
Any brushing with a rinse use a soft brush like a paint brush. Wet wood damages easily.

After the rinse and with the wood still wet I use wood bleach (Oxalic Acid),,NOT Laundry Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite).
1 Tbs/ qt of water. Warm it in the MickeyWave for 30 to 45 seconds. Dunk or paint this on the wet wood. Slosh it on.
It'll even up the color and lighten it at the same time. It'll remove any discolorations in the wood from old distress marks and the like.
When it's to your liking,,rinse completely again,,cool water this time. Taking care again not to damage or bruise the wood. It'll be very easy to damage.

Now hang it and let it dry on it's own. Don't be tempted to force dry it w/a torch or even placing it in a hot box or on the dashboard of the family transporter.

It won't take more than a few hours to appear completely dry,,sometimes less.
I leave them for a couple days before starting finishing.
The wood will take stain and finish beautifully.

I do use a lacquer thinner soak at first to remove some stocks with heavy oil in them.
I never completely trust them to do the entire job as there is really nothing to absorb the oil once it's in solution in the thinner wether it's acetone or lac/thinner, or whatever.

That's where the whiting powder or the hotbox with the absorbent like cat litter comes into play.

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Those pics were my 1st round. Since then I have caked it on thick and have used water as my liquid in the paste. It is getting cleaner but I am amazed at how much oil it is still leaching. The stock did not look as oiled as many I have seen.

Do you think the diff between water and alcohol as the liquid in the paste will matter any?

Thanks for input.

Last edited by Travis S; 08/07/19 05:15 PM.
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Originally Posted By: Travis S


Do you think the diff between water and alcohol as the liquid in the paste will matter any?

Thanks for input.


No not really.

The solvent in the whiting paste is just to allow it to be applied to the wood and form a shell clinging to it after the solvent, what ever it may be, evaporates.

What ever works easiest for you to get the stuff onto the wood is what's the best (for you). It evaporates and is then of no issue wether the oil is drawn from the wood and absorbed or not.
Acetone evaporates in a few seconds, Alchohol in a minute or so,, and water in a few minutes. But they all go away leaving the shell of Whiting which is what you want.

Oil can go right through the wood from one side to the other even in the thickest areas of the stock like behind the grip area if the grain is just right.
I had a somewhat plain piece of Euro walnut on a Belgian 410 SxS that was just soaked with oil and one area that started in the checkering pattern on the rt side and came through mid way down the stock on the left side as a small swirl of pattern. That area of wood grain was like a tunnel of oil from one side to the other.
That one took a long time to draw it all out.

When you think it's all done,,just let the stock set by itself for a few days or a week. If there's any more in there,,it'll come out and show itself.
Sometimes very easy to see on the surface. Other times only small dark pinpoints of oil on the surface. But it'll still be there to go after again.

It's good to have other work to do while an armfull of old wood is hanging around the shop or garage being de-oiled.
That way you have a tendency to leave them hang longer, forget about them, let the stuff work and not concentrate on them as much hoping for quick results.
...All this ranks very poorly as a spectator sport.

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Sidelock
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Definitely no spectator sport. I am in no hurry as I have other things to work on but this is a project I really want to turn out nice.

I have not seen many 30" barreled straight stock Ideal grade 20 gauge LC smiths and am hoping to get it back for another 100 years of service.

Thanks for the input see yall back in a few months.

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Originally Posted By: Kutter


It's good to have other work to do while an armfull of old wood is hanging around the shop or garage being de-oiled.
That way you have a tendency to leave them hang longer, forget about them, let the stuff work and not concentrate on them as much hoping for quick results.
...All this ranks very poorly as a spectator sport.


This is the best advice there is when it comes to de-oiling gun stocks. It took decades for that oil to seep deep into most oiled wood. The idea that you will get it out in a few days is simply dreaming. Trying to speed up the process with the repeated and prolonged use of harsh organic solvents causes even more damage to the cellulose and lignin structure of the wood.

In reality, it is probably impossible to remove all oil without severely damaging a stock in the process. As Kutter says, put it aside for awhile after de-oiling, and more will usually come back to the surface. Osmosis seeks equalibrium, and any remaining oil deep with the wood will naturally migrate to the clean and dry surface structure. The idea is to get out most of it to prevent the wood from getting punky oil-rot, save any solvent soaks for last to get a good clean surface, quickly steam out dents, repair any cracks, and then lightly sand/de-whisker/refinish before any remaining oil can come back to the top and interfere with your finish.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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A good soak in thinners or Tricoethylene or similar .

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