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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305
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These bushings do not have the bronze set screws.

I got the right side bushing off with much effort but did succeed. It was very clean as the prior owner had dunked all but the whole gun is grease.

The left side is giving me fits. I have used all kinds of penetrating oil, a properly fitted and slotted screw driver and copious amounts of torque.

There is no rusting on this gun so I would have a hard time believing this is the only rusted up part.

Any thoughts on removal?

I obviously do not want to destroy the bushing if at all possible.

BTW just a real nice O grade gun. No high grade LC Smiths were hurt or damaged in this episode of Tinkering with ole man LC.

Many thanks

Joined: Dec 2011
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Try heat. They crack through the screw slot, and it's hard to tell till you get it stated out. Good luck.

Joined: Jul 2012
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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I suggest heating with a heavy electric soldering iron, to apply heat mainly to the bushing, apply good penetrant, then tighten the bushing and alternate between tightening and loosening. If that doesn't work, set it up in the drill press to hold the driver firmly in the bushing and turn the driver back and forth with a wrench or visegrips. If that doesn't work, ask someone with more sense than I( shouldn't be hard to find).
Mike

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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Aug 2018
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yeah I tried the propane torch and it heats the area around the bushing as well. I am only applying enough to heat to smoke the penetrant so as not to over heat. I think I will heat and cool, heat and cool a few cycles and then get back on the torque.

I am a big guy and don't feel it is even close to moving yet.

BTW a modified small pair of channel locks works great at cocking/uncocking the hammers on the removed side locks.

Joined: Aug 2018
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305
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Ok freezing and heating and Kroil and painfull amounts of torque but nothing.

Ok maybe the 1st question I should have asked ... but do both bushings have RH threads?

Thanks

Travis

Joined: Feb 2006
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2006
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They both have the same threads. Most were 5/16-32 but I have heard of another. They are at a compound angle. If you have the bit or screwdriver that fits the slot perfect, I would try hitting it with a hammer while trying to turn it out.

A 4" adjustable works the best, even better than the tool they sell now.


David


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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 305
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Thanks David

I have been giving it taps along the way but now that I am sure it is lefty loosey then I am going to try the drill press method. I will have to fab someway to chuck the receiver up in my table vice but once learned always applied.

Thanks again.

Joined: Feb 2002
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Using a drill press or mill w/a screw driver blade set in the slot and held securely down and then turn the quill by HAND as DerAmi suggests is the usual final way to success on the stubborn ones.

I've had the bit's break in attempts to remove some screws in this way but ultimately being successfull. At least there's no chance of slipping/skipping out of the screw slot with the bit or doing a wriggle pattern with the screw driver down the side of the frame.

The bushing may already be broken in 1/2, and with the torque applied by the blade inserted in the slot and pushed down, it is separating the halves and wedging them even tighter in the threaded hole.
The more pressure,,the tighter the grip the bushing has in the hole.

Take a moment and with a very small, thin narrow screwdriver blade, place it down onto and slightly into the slot on the one side of the bushing firing-pin hole so that a gentle tap w/a small hammer will show if it will rotate/unscrew at all.
A little oil in and around the bushing will help show if there's any movement of the part.

You don't want to damage the screw slot of course,,but you are just trying to see if the bushing unscrews or moves at all with the little help that this gives it.
This will not put any of the wedging action a full screw driver can produce to a cracked bushing, if in fact it is and we don't know that.
It is just to find out if the bushing is being locked in place by the common removal method.

If it moves at all with this, then a far move light handed approach to removing it is needed. Kind of kicking it around in rotation a part turn at a time with the same technique till it's out far enough to unscrew w/your fingers.

...and maybe it's just totally rusted into place and ain't gonna move w/o breaking.


Is there a real need to remove the bushing?.
Is it damaged or pitted, in need of replacement?

I know the feeling of 'it should come out,,it's made to be removed".
But in this case, removing may mean damaging. You'll win the war by removing it, but may wreak it in doing so and now you have to make and fit a replacement.
Hardly worth the exercise I'd think at this point.

Joined: Aug 2018
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

Joined: Aug 2018
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So far I have not messed anything up.

I agree part of it is the battle of wills and I hate losing or unloosing in this case. I am fine with winning slowly and deliberately though.

I was planning on re-CCH'ing this receiver and assumed the bushings would need to be out to do so. Otherwise I could leave them in place but also figured at some time in the future if a pin wore or broke (these are 121 years old by this time) I would have to remove anyway so seems like easier earlier than later.

Did I mention I hate losing.

Thanks for the input.

Joined: Feb 2008
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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I don't think Kroil should even be classified as a penetrating oil because it has failed for me so many times. If Kroil loosens stuck threads, they probably weren't stuck all that bad in the first place. I have lots of it, and I use it as an assembly lube for rusty muffler clamps and things like that.

For really stuck threads, I agree with the repeated soldering iron heating and applications of a really GOOD penetrating oil as Mike suggested. Whenever I see electric soldering irons at automotive swap meets or flea markets for a buck or two, I buy them. I'm talking about the straight type with larger copper tips, usually 40 to 100 watts. I grind the tip to fit closely in the screw slot, and tie it in place vertically with wire so I can plug it in and let it heat for 10 or 15 minutes. Then unplug it, let it cool, and apply more penetrating oil. This alternating heating and cooling seems to help draw penetrating oil deep into the threads because of the repeated expansion and contraction. And it may be necessary to do it once or twice a day for several days or even weeks. Patience very important when removing stuck screws. The drill press method is excellent, but the ability to apply greater force at a strong downward angle also means that you may break a driver bit and do damage, or you may even strip or gall the threads if they have not had enough time for a penetrating lubricant to get way down deep to juice them up.

Remember that rust occupies much more volume than clean uncorroded steel, and it makes an abrasive thread-locker that can cause galling if you apply too much force too soon. This is why tapping helps. It compresses and breaks that bond, and also allows penetrant to get into the threads. I've had screws that I thought were hopelessly stuck and would need drilled out easily break free after several months of soaking. It also helps to cover the area with Saran Wrap to keep the penetrating oil from evaporating for these extended soaks. This is why it helps to have other projects to move on to while waiting.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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