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Forums10
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Most Online1,131 Jan 21st, 2024
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2 |
I will be resoldering a 4 inch section of top rib with 50/50 solder. Regarding the flux one book recommends zinc chloride solution, another one says rosin, and I have used nokorode paste with good results on other steel soldering though not barrel rib. Any Ideas on these or other recco's would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397 |
Rosin, clean it well with a degreaser first, wire everything in place and do not get it so hot you burn the rosin.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2 |
SKB, thank you. What about using 50/50 solder with rosin core along with powdered rosin in the joints?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397 |
I use plain 50/50 solder and a liquid rosin flux. Rosin core works great for electrical connections but you need more flux for gunwork. I have no experience with powdered rosin flux so can not comment on it. Steve
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 908 Likes: 43
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 908 Likes: 43 |
Mix the powdered rosin with acetone or denatured alcohol.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,720 Likes: 48
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,720 Likes: 48 |
I would also wire the barrels in that area so that the heat does not travel through and melt the bottom rib solder.
David
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 151 Likes: 2 |
Thanks Steve Mark and David. I will go with the liquid rosin flux on order now. Ill also practice on a scrap barrel. Question, how far back from the joint should I remove the barrel blue?w
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,981 Likes: 397 |
You do not need to remove the barrel blue but you need a clean surface for the solder to bond to. I usually try to de-grease the local area with acetone etc. then slip a piece of abrasive paper in the crack and try to clean it up a bit more before soldering.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,313 Likes: 378
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,313 Likes: 378 |
I haven't had a chance to try this stuff on a rib repair job yet, but Oatey No. 95 Lead Free Tinning Flux is pretty amazing stuff. I would probably want to try it on a set of junk barrels first. It does a great job of fluxing and tinning the joint which is so important for a good job. Although intended for lead free solders, it works fantastic with common 50-50, 60-40, etc lead-tin solders. They also sell it in small tins. I first used it when I plumbed my house, and it made soldering with the lead free stuff simple and flawless. I tried it in desperation on a soldering job a couple years ago when several other fluxes failed and most of my 50-50 was rolling off and splattering on the floor. This was on a job where getting the joint perfectly clean was nearly impossible. It worked perfectly. I think it may do just as well on a shotgun rib. But I would still try to clean the repair area as good as possible with thin abrasive paper and acetone before soldering. Rubbing a graphite pencil around the repair area prevents solder from sticking to areas where you don't want it.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,720 Likes: 48
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,720 Likes: 48 |
Thanks Keith, great tips. I have two barrels that the bottom rib is loose near the loop for about 4". I have tried soldering a small area, it held but I would like to try the longer part and like the idea of using the pencil to stop solder where you don't want it.
David
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