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Joined: Aug 2013
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I made an offer on a Parker VHE with an enormous bolt the the head. I know the proper way to repair a head split, but I dont see any evidence of cracks in the wrist at the end of the tangs to indicate it needed the repair. Either way, if I get it, the giant stove bolt has to go, and the hole patched.

Whats the consensus on how to plug holes such as this?

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Send it to TSD or Mark Larson

Last edited by skeettx; 03/16/18 07:14 PM.
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I did one of these by removing the bolt, a carriage bolt and square farmer's nut, in my case, and replacing that with a hardwood dowel that was epoxied in place. This was done after stripping the old finish and removing soaked in oil.

Then I evenly planed the stock cheeks off about 3/32" on each side. You could use a belt sander to do this, but both cheeks must be completely flat. Two pieces of black walnut veneer were then glued on using Titebond II wood glue, to completely cover the dowel repair. Clamp carefully to get a close fitting joint. I made my approx. 1/8" thick black walnut veneers by making a simple fixture to run them through my thickness planer. I've found that the Titebond II makes the most invisible glue joint so long as the joint is closely fitted. Then the new veneers on the cheeks were carefully sanded down to meet the action and stock. To further conceal the glue joint, you can make some artificial pores across the glue joint with the point of an X-Acto knife. Too few is better than too many here. The whole stock was refinished with a reddish dark Watco Danish Oil finish.

I was lucky in that the grain of the original wood in the bolted stock cheeks was relatively straight grain walnut. With a little time matching grain, a closely fitted glue joint, and the dark reddish walnut finish, you had to look hard to notice it had been repaired. For a field grade that isn't worth the cost or time of restocking, it was light-years better than the original Bubba repair.

A lot of Parkers have been repaired by dowels or screws or bolts through the stock cheeks, because the tangs are tapered like a wedge. While you have the stock removed, it is a good idea to do the "staple" repair in the head of the stock to prevent future problems. You can Google "Parker shotgun staple repair" to see what I mean.


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Thanks. Ive done the staple repair before. I was wondering about the dowel, but was certain the grain of one wouldnt work on its own. The vaneer makes sense.

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Got the gun. Too good of a price to pass on it, and I have a hard time leaving guns like this in their current pitiful state. Big ol' bolt in that head. Pictures here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-xeqBAsb-ZMgCOb_AgQhzdojFi3xKZMw

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Build a hidden bolt set under the wood level, plug the holes with a wooden dowel with closely matching grain turned on a lathe, glue and fit. Hide your repairs in a built up, on top of the wood finish by adding color to the finish in the location of the repair. I just did a Parker with two bolts to hide. Pain in the rear but a very good solution.


http://www.bertramandco.com/
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Last edited by skeettx; 04/04/18 05:21 PM.

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Go here:
https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=wood+plugs&button=search

There are also other suppliers that are similar for the hobbyist.

Get a plug cutter or buy plugs and a brad point drill to match. Much easier to hide. Maybe consider checkering the panels. Easier than the grip since it is flat.


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After seeing photots of your VHE on the Parker board, the one side of the bolt head has to be 1/2 in diameter and the top of it falls way outside the border of the cheek panel. In my opinion the only option is to just replace the stock. Anything else would be throwing good money/effort after bad.


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This one looked worse than the gun in question, two big ugly stove bolts through the head. The rear one half way through the spear point on the rear of the cheeks. Not my favorite type of finish but you need to have a on top of the wood finish to hide the repair.



http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

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