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#504734 - 02/12/18 06:24 AM Parker roll joint pin tightness?
Bibbyman Offline
Sidelock

Registered: 07/07/16
Posts: 157
Loc: Missouri


My Parker in an ammo can project made a major advancement this week when I was able to obtain a set of barrels that march well and I'm making progress fitting.

The gun came with the original roller hinge, pin and screw. The pin is really tight. The parts are clean and lightly oiled. I use a small brass hammer to tap the pin and then snug up the screw and then tap some more. At this point, I have just driven the pin in about half way - enough to work at fitting barrels.

How tight should I expect the pin to be? Does it require driving in? Should it be a slip fit?

Thanks!

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#504739 - 02/12/18 06:53 AM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
Kutter Offline
Sidelock
***

Registered: 02/05/02
Posts: 1439
The pin is a very tight fit. Driving it out requires a steel punch placed down in the bottom of the screw thread hole and a decent hammer to knock it out.
Putting it all back together is usually a little easier as the parts are cleaned up from old grease & oil, ect. But they are still a drive fit.

A large brass punch on the pin w/a very thin pece of leather so as not to ding the surface. Again that decent size hammer,,,,and the action well supported in a bench vise.
I've used Delrin/Nylon drift pinches and they work OK and deffinetly won't mark the surface of that pin,,but I just don't like the lightweight feel to them for this.

When disassembling, I place a small witness mark on the pin under the removed screw to indicate 12'oclock.
That helps in reassembly to get the pin back in the right rotational allignment so that the screw 'qualifys' when tightened up.
Even then I sometimes have to tap the pin back out and turn it a degree or two to get the screw slot just right when tight.

Coming to you disassembled you will probably have to go thru the latter of adjusting the pin placement till the screw slot qualifys for you.
But it's not a difficult thing to do, just takes a little time and the result is a big difference in the final appearance of the project.

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#504751 - 02/12/18 07:58 AM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
Bibbyman Offline
Sidelock

Registered: 07/07/16
Posts: 157
Loc: Missouri
Thanks for the quick replay.

I'll probably drive the pin back out and clean the pin and hole really well. Timing of the screw slot was something I hadn't considered.

The screw slot and head of the pin screw are a little abused. I may try to improve it some. The gun will never be totally restored having updated wood and mismatched barrels but it won't hurt to improve it any little bit I can.

I need 4 screws to finish up. The set screws on both sides of the hammer pin screws are missing and the small screw on the left side that cover the cocking lever pin. The rear trigger guard screw is wrong - just a common wood screw.

Galazan makes a set of screws but I can't find any in stock.

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#504810 - 02/12/18 02:48 PM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
tut Offline
Sidelock
**

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 1196
Loc: Retired FED
I think Brian Dudley might make those screws or has had someone make them for him. Could be wrong. Might send him a note and ask.

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#504845 - 02/12/18 07:39 PM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
B. Dudley Offline
Sidelock
**

Registered: 02/16/11
Posts: 1161
Loc: Rochester, NY
Yes, i have almost anything you may need for screws. New and used.

The timing of the joint pin screw is something that can be some trial and error. Sometimes the pin is marked with a little stake mark at the factory. But if now, you just have to tighten the screw down and see where it lands. Then drive the pin back out enough to rotate it, and then try again.

The joint pin should be tight. And should be driven in. Some go in easier than others. I usually use a maple block on the head pf the pin as a buffer for hammering them in.
_________________________
B.Dudley

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#504971 - 02/13/18 04:44 PM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
Bibbyman Offline
Sidelock

Registered: 07/07/16
Posts: 157
Loc: Missouri


Well, it's together!

I've gotten with Brian Dudley and will be getting the last 4 screws.

I have some 2.5" brass hulls that I'll load with black powder and see if the old gun will go bang.

Thanks for all the help.

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#504973 - 02/13/18 05:37 PM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
skeettx Offline
Sidelock
**

Registered: 06/03/08
Posts: 3747
Loc: Amarillo, Texas
Yeeee Hawwww
Please post a final and shooting report with pictures
Mike
_________________________

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#505207 - Yesterday at 10:04 AM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
Bibbyman Offline
Sidelock

Registered: 07/07/16
Posts: 157
Loc: Missouri
It's getting closer to time to shoot it. Actually, I'm waiting for weather conditions to improve to were I can take good video. Right now it's just below freezing and high winds. I know all I'll get is the roar of the wind.

A couple of questions on finish:

What should the finish on the Damascus barrels look like? The gun is 1884 vintage and the barrels a few years older. I've looked at many pictures of Parker shotguns and there are so much variation I'm not sure.

The wood is updated but what looks to be polyurethane finish is thin in spots and now has small handling marks. I'm thinking a light skuffing and apply another coat by hand. I normally use Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil. Is that going to fill the scratches and cover the thin areas?


Edited by Bibbyman (Yesterday at 10:06 AM)

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#505252 - Yesterday at 06:54 PM Re: Parker roll joint pin tightness? [Re: Bibbyman]
B. Dudley Offline
Sidelock
**

Registered: 02/16/11
Posts: 1161
Loc: Rochester, NY
Black and White is the proper barrel finish.

You will likely have good luck getting the truoil to do what you want it to. For scratches, i would maybe try wet sanding them out if they are just in the poly. Finish itself will usually not do much for filling in scratches.
_________________________
B.Dudley

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