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Joined: Dec 2006
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Have you looked at this one listed on Gunsinternational: http://www.gunsinternational.com/guns-fo...un_id=100943538

It's a 16 gauge with 27-5/8 barrels but at less than 6-1/4 pounds, would probably be delightful to carry.

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Remington, I have looked at that. It is very nice, but I think the seller is very high.

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I agree, but you lose nothing by contacting him and making him an offer you think fair.

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My late father-in-law was a successful car dealer. One of his favorite expressions was - If you don't ask, you don't get...

Steve

Last edited by Rockdoc; 12/03/17 09:25 AM.

Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Sidelock
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Spreader chokes will give good shot spread, not as much as a canon raye but wide enough to fully cover a 30 inch circle at 12 meters. I have tested with Briley, Colonial, Seminole and European made chokes. There is not much difference between makes.

The advantage of the spreader choke is that a choke change makes the barrel adaptable for other uses, something not possible with a canon raye.

Seeing there is plenty of used shotguns with screw in chokes, it might be worth considering this option.


Last edited by Shotgunlover; 12/13/17 07:32 AM.
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Sidelock
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Just cyl choke(s) are good. Use spreeder loads in them if you want even more.

As far as filling the void at the muzzle on cut bbls, don't be concerned that the entire assembly will fall to pieces because you apply heat to solder it up.
I routinely solder and re-solder the muzzle ends closed after rust bluing (I open them to allow the bbl's to drain better if I can).

Clean the edges of the bbls and opposing ribs down in there, scrape clean. A tiny amt of paste flux, insert or reinsert the keels if you have any.
If you don't, a small tuft of steel wool pushed into the opening a ways will dam it closed so the solder won't drip down the opening freely. It'll absorb the flux with the first heat and then the solder and become one mass soldered to the bbls and ribs in there.

For heat I use nothing but a pistol grip electric soldering gun (Weller). Plenty of heat( I tin the ribs and most all of the bbl surfacees with the same gun when relaying ribs), common 50/50 or 60/40 lead-tin solder.
No wet wraps or clamps, it takes but a few seconds to heat and flow the solder and be done. Nothing comes undone.
File trim it flat and polish smooth.
If there are any voids in it, it was dirty. Clear them, scrape them clean, reflux the areas and touch up with the soldering gun again and retrim.
One of the old school plug in soldering irons w/the large copper tip works well for this too. Tin the tip well to start.
It'll have plenty of heat for a quick solder job on the muzzle.
Stay away from a propane torch IMO,,no need for one to do the muzzle fill-in job. You can get into trouble using one of these unless very careful and apply too much heat w/o noticing it. Then you can start to loosen ribs or overheat the steel and have problems.

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About 30 ears ago at the same time I started hunting and collecting doubles I would stop at tag sales here in NY while driving around for work. One day I found a high condition Stevens 5100 (precursor to the 311) in 16ga. w/28"bbls., 75% case color, 95% blue and wood.

Not long after, still being new to actual hunting, I read that CYL & CYL is perfect for woodcock. Out came the hacksaw, bobbed it bac to 24" and did a very nice job, patterned well. I filled in gap under the ribs with some Brownells solder.

Sure wish I had left it alone.


My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.
- Errol Flynn
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