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Forums10
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3 |
I've toyed with the idea of buying a cheaper double and building it into a dedicated woodcock and rabbit gun. I'm thinking shorter barrels and cyl/cyl. With a gun of very little to no collector value, would this be a terrible idea? Yes, I could have the chokes reamed out, but a shorter lighter barreled gun would be much faster in the thick aspen and alder thickets. My concern would be filling the open hollow between the ribs. I've seen some fill this will devcon steel epoxy/JB Weld, but I'm afraid that would look a tad trashy. If I were to plug it and try to fill it with soft solder, I fear too much heat could loosen the ribs and cause them to separate. Any advice on barrel length, techniques, should I avoid this, has anyone tried this etc?
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,091 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,091 Likes: 13 |
Why would you cut barrels when there are so many 26 inchers out there already and they sell for less than longer barreled guns. I would look for a fast handling gun and 26" barrels usually means faster. Chokes could be cut by Mike Orlen. He charges somewhere around $40/choke and he is good at turning your chokes into cylinder. Maybe the left barrel should have some choke for longer shots.
So many guns, so little time!
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,124 Likes: 195 |
Aahhhhh!!! Chopping off lengths of shotgun barrel is anathema to us Brits. With the shock horror out of the way I have performed this operation on a gun owned by local game keeper for the same reasons you describe, Using a gun in thickets and dense woodland. I did put up all the arguments with a suggestion that he purchased a 25 inch barrel set for his Webley and Scott 700. Unfortunately, I was not persuasive enough though and after the suggestion that he would take a hacksaw to the gun which I am sure he would know I would relent and take the barrels down to 25 inches. I must add here that it was in the early 1960s when Webley and Scott shotguns where a reasonable cost and another barrel set would not have broken the bank. My method was first to measure the length of finished barrel required then add an eighth of an inch to allow for trimming and cleaning up, then cut making sure the cut is square and straight. Next file up a three eights in length fillet of mild steel shaped to take up the major part of the space between the bottom and top ribs and each of the barrels the closer the fit the better. Then prepare the barrels for soldering and the fillet, firstly at about an inch from the muzzle wrap wire around the barrels and between the ribs and the wire slide in some metal wedges (I used Aluminium wedges a good heat conductor) doing this is all to keep the soldering heat away from the ribs and melting the solder holding them and keeping everything tight. Next flux up the inside of the ribs and barrels also flux the steel fillet and to improve the odds of first time success I did tin the metal fillet before fitting (you MUST use a non-corrosive based flux) now the solder I recommend is electrical grade of 60:40 Tin Lead because it has a lower melting point of the common available solders. I held the barrels in a vice fitted with wooden cheeks at an angle of about 20 degrees with a wet cloth wrapped around the barrels from the wire wrap down towards the breach (do not fall in to the trap of mounting the barrel vertically muzzle up) because there is a good chance the solder will empty out of the joint caused by gravity, and unless you have some form of stop on the fillet it has the potential to drop out of sight when things expand due to the heat. WORK QUICKLEY!!!! And try to keep the heat to just enough to get the solder to flow. When everything has cooled down use a flat fine file to trim the fillet taking care to keep everything true and at right angles. Even now I have not changed my mind, purchase a low price gun with short barrels and leave the said gun as designed and manufactured.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,859 |
I don't plan to cut any barrels but I do really like the detail you go into with your pasts Damascus. Thank you!
Steve
Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,979 Likes: 295
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,979 Likes: 295 |
FWIW, I find open chokes terrible for cottontail shooting. For Woodcock, in the thick, it can up your scores.
Out there doing it best I can.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3 |
Thank you guys...
I'm trying to create a Becassier-type shotgun. Its rather hard to find these types of shotguns at reasonable prices here in the U.S.
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,118 Likes: 198
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 14,118 Likes: 198 |
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,702 Likes: 99
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 7,702 Likes: 99 |
Woodcock. Canon raye. Rifling up the bore to disperse shot for short range targets...Geo
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,149 Likes: 1147 |
Thank you guys...
I'm trying to create a Becassier-type shotgun. Its rather hard to find these types of shotguns at reasonable prices here in the U.S. There may be a good reason. SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 644 Likes: 3 |
Thank you guys...
I'm trying to create a Becassier-type shotgun. Its rather hard to find these types of shotguns at reasonable prices here in the U.S. There may be a good reason. SRH Don't believe they are very useful Stan?
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