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Forums10
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Most Online1,258 Mar 29th, 2024
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5 |
Would appreciate some advice. Great old Lefever 12-gauge inherited from my Grandmother, who bought it Go-knows-where probably in the 50's or earlier. Beautiful gun and note the push style barrel release, which I think is likely pretty rare for these (you guys are the experts!). Looks to me like the wood (Walnut?) has been refinished long ago (before Grandmother's ownership, for sure). [/b]Should I refinish and re-checker or leave it alone?[b]It's a family treasure to me and I'd never sell it but I don't want to screw up the value, as sometimes happens when folks refinish antiques. I'd love to have the wood looking beautiful again and have seen many beautiful restorations. Is the "damage already done" to the value since it's already been (poorly) refinished to date (in which case I'd might as well go ahead)? [/b]Advice appreciated![b][Image] http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f15/wtfoley3/IMG_0245_zpszszmsqqt.jpg[Image] http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f15/wtfoley3/IMG_0240_zpscfa9uz0t.jpgAny suggestions on how to get a more clear picture of the checkering that would have originally been on the forestock? I think I see a very faint remnant of checkering there. Also, note the photo below: There's a wedge of wood on the forestock that doesn't look original to me (note the two brads! Ugh!). Someone mentioned that this may have originally been ebony. [/b]Can you guys enlighten me to what it would have been originally?[b] I think I can handle restoring this aspect, regardless of whether I refinish all the wood or not. [Image] http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f15/wtfoley3/IMG_0244_zpsajcus2g7.jpgThanks much! Bill Foley Cary, NC
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,982 Likes: 397
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,982 Likes: 397 |
The missing piece was likely horn not ebony. Replacing it with the proper material could not hurt. I would clean the checkering before considering having it re-cut. Try warm water, an old toothbrush and a mild soap.
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,445 Likes: 201
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,445 Likes: 201 |
Bill, Unless your grandmother was known to hunt or otherwise use a gun; it may be worth the time to research the actual source of the gun. It may have actually come from someone else in your family, maybe your grand father or great grand father. Mike
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
How about a picture of the barrels? What kind of pattern do they have? Some E grades had the Chainette pattern..
Regards Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,313 Likes: 378
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,313 Likes: 378 |
You have an early thumb push opener model that was built when E was the lowest grade Lefever. The insert in the tip of the forend would have been made of a dark colored buffalo horn. It will take some care to remove the piece of wood that was used to replace the missing horn tip without doing damage, especially if glue was used in addition to the brads. It looks like your gun still has a lot of original case hardening color on the sideplates. I notice that the forend iron is not attached to the wood, and the forend release and escutcheon is also removed. I hope it isn't missing because finding a replacement would be very difficult. The buttstock appears to have very nice figure and looks to be in pretty nice shape. If you decide to have someone refinish it, make certain it is someone who knows what they are doing. That wood is over 125 years old, and Lefevers tend to crack or split at the head of the stock above and below the sideplates where the thin and fragile wood meets the action. Great care must be taken during any disassembly. It is also for this reason that only low pressure low recoil loads should be used if the barrels are un-pitted and still safe to fire. You may be able to find pictures of the forend checkering when one comes up for sale on Gunbroker or other online source. Or enough of the original pattern may still be seen after stripping the finish for a good stock checkerer to re-cut it exactly as it was originally. Here's a pic of the forend checkering and the horn tip. A good restoration will not be cheap, but a cheap restoration will likely do more harm than good. You would be better off leaving it as is than letting someone screw it up with incorrect techniques and materials.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5 |
Hi, Ken61. Here's a close-up of the barrels. Will post more photos once I get Photobucket to cooperat4e and accept my uploads (rueful grin). Interested in your thoughts! Thanks again. Photobucket Image
Last edited by wtfoley3; 10/29/17 12:16 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,862 |
Bill,
To me, it looks like 3-iron Boston, but DocDrew would really have to give the definitive answer. I've been slow in my response because I have two similar sets nearly finished. I'll post a pic of what they look like when I'm happy with'em.
Regards Ken
I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 996 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 996 Likes: 9 |
To see what a Lefever thumb push of the vintage of your gun looks like after a professional deals with it, Bill, take a look at the 10 gauge I have for sale at the bottom of the guns for sale forum as "Lefever C 1885". Your action flats should be marked with a letter that is the grade of the gun, the barrel flats, too.
Regards, Tim
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5
Boxlock
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OP
Boxlock
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 5 |
Beautiful, Tim. Thanks so much for sharing.
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