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I have a model 37 commemorative, 1776-1976 with 30" barrels choked modified. I have adjusted the butt stock as far down as I can and still see the bead but it shoots 3" high at 16 yards. Is it possible to adjust the fixed choke in some manner to bring it down? I have read somewhere here where guys have filed the edge of the choke in the muzzle area but I have not heard whether they were successful after patterning again. I could sell the gun to someone who it fits but I do like the gun and would like to keep it. I would appreciate advice.

builder,
I suspect that a really good shotgun mechanic can bend the barrel enough to get it to shoot where you want it to,
Mike

Der Ami is correct. Bending it to move the pattern 3" lower is VERY easy. You won't ever know it was done if you don't watch.

I have seen it done, and moved the pattern more than that, on a Model 12.

SRH

I've likely told this before, but my first gun after the obligatory (for southern boys) singleshot .410 was a 20ga model 31 Remington pump that belonged to my mother. She'd fallen in a middle GA gully while bird hunting and bent the barrel laterally. I learned to shoot by using no lead at all in one direction and doubling the lead in the other.

I showed it to a local gun trader who led me out to his front yard where there was a forked tree. He took the barrel off and put it between the forks and bent it back straight by eye. I never could get used to that gun after that...Geo

Thanks guys. I have done that with a model 31 Remington and I know it can be done on a model 12 just as you say. In the past a very good friend helped me pattern two pump guns. He brought along a tool that looks a bit like a huge gear puller. It was made for bending barrels. We used the tool to bend the Model 31 to shoot more to the right. (4" on 16 yards). It was easy. This was probably ten years ago.

The other gun was a model 37. We bent the heck out of it and it just returned to origin. I surmised, as he did that this being a newer gun used a different type of steel. We were unable to move the point of aim and in the end I sold the gun.

I have not tried to bend this barrel but this is what I know. I really like the feel and looks of the gun. It is a 1776-1976 Centennial (no gold) with nice engraving and a black finish. Possibly the buttstock has been replaced since it has beautiful figure in my eyes but it came without checkering. It came with a 30" plain barrel, choked Mod and is relatively light weight and handles well. My kind of feel. I am not a collector.

Since it was made in 1976 I assume it is the same steel and the guy with the tool lives five hours from me. Maybe it is worth a shot at bending anyway. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?
I have a table top drill press that I could use to push down on the center of the barrel while holding the ends up on a couple of blocks of wood. Not much of a throw on this homeowners type press though. Maybe four or five inches. Any other thoughts?

Sorry to ramble on.

You might have a bottle jack or scissor jack that could do very small increments at a time. I'd spend a good bit more time on blocking, leveling and protection the finish, than pushing on the barrel. I hope you don't mind if I add in that it may shoot just fine as is.

It does shoot high for me and I am not good at adjusting. I try very hard to fit all my guns to me so whichever I pick up I have a good chance of shooting it well.

I do have both jacks and that is a great idea.

I figure on forming a half circle cut on the block second from the top and the top one and use screws to clamp them together and using blue tape to cover the barrel to protect the finish.

builder,
I suggest you have someone with a lot of experience( even some) try it for you.
Mike

Before I did any bbl-bending excercizes,,I'd replace the front bead with a larger one.
That will generally make you naturally point the bbl lower on the target as you look just over the top of the taller bead.
The Ithaca's are standard 6-48 IIRC.

Lot's of large(r) dia round bead sites available in steel, brass, colors, ect.

Worth a try before you go the blacksmithing route though that can give good results if done correctly.
The correction needed is very small but must be done very carefully.
Tubing bends differently than a solid bar.

Thank you for taking the time to help me solve my problem. I never would have thought of it. I just ordered a front sight that will be higher. If it works I won't have to take the risk of bending the barrel.

In the construction trades when there is a critical bend to do in tubing we fill the tube first with sand so the bend retains its round shape.