Stan,
I read your reply with interest, very good advice.
Whilst on the subject have you ever read a good informative article or book on adjusting trigger pulls?
I have an extensive library of gun books , gunmaking, gunsmithing and brands , everyone brushes lightly over setting triggers , with the caution that doing it wrong can be expensive and or dangerous , but not one book advises on doing it correctly????
Comments please.
Salopian (Peter)
Stan, I have much more knowledge on rifle and handgun triggers than shotguns. Some rifle trigger pull weights are in ounces, not pounds. But the thing to grasp is not the mechanism of a particular gun, but the geometry of the parts as they move. The relationship between a hammer and a sear are not complex but they do not allow much variance. The engagement between the sear and hammer always need to be at a positive angle. The greater the positive engagement angle the heavier the pull weight. As the positive angle approaches 0° recoil may override the springs and cause doubling. Anything negative of 0° and the trigger and sear springs are all that maintain engagement(the hammer spring is pushing opposite them), and the slightest bump can cause catastrophe. Remember also the line to take your angles off of are not always where they first appear. They are always a line drawn from the center of the hammer pin/pivot and the sear pin/pivot. Now draw a line perpendicular to the pivot line that intersects the sear hammer contact points. Now adjust slight positive angles to both parts. If you create too much positive engagement the pull weight gets heavier because the hammer/main spring is compressing as the sear climbs out of the engagement. Rule of thumb, try 2°. Remember once the metal is taken off it is harder to put it back.
John
