April
S M T W T F S
1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13
14 15 16 17 18 19 20
21 22 23 24 25 26 27
28 29 30
Who's Online Now
6 members (JDH, fullandfuller, Stanton Hillis, Rick W, Ted Schefelbein, bushveld), 407 guests, and 6 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums10
Topics38,443
Posts544,797
Members14,405
Most Online1,258
Mar 29th, 2024
Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,145
Likes: 1145
Sidelock
**
Online Content
Sidelock
**

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,145
Likes: 1145
Thanks, Kutter. That's good info.

keith, I have a kiln, bone charcoal, a crucible, etc. but if it can be done with Kasenit so that it will last for occasional usage, I'd rather go that route. The gun honestly doesn't get shot much at all. If I ever find the hammergun of my dreams, and I think I will, this one will move on down the road. It's won some hammer gun events, but it has no soul.

SRH


May God bless America and those who defend her.
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 192
Sidelock
***
Offline
Sidelock
***

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 192
Sometimes I feel that starting out in Engineering not long after the end of WW2 here in Brit land did give an insight into that Brit mind set of “make do and mend.” For a long time every day engineering consumables where not available so substitutes where quickly found. Now I am not saying that the substitutes where as good as the real thing but they did come in as a good second. From the now very tatty paged note book I kept with all those little snippets of information so from the page containing such useless information now but back then priceless, how to use Tin Lead soft solder and a soldering Iron to solder connections to Aluminium.

Dipping case hardening Powder all ingredients are by volume.
8 parts of coal dust
5 parts of powdered Carbon/Charcoal
5 parts of powdered sugar.
From my notes, the sugar and coal dust make a crust on the hot metal keeping the mixture in contact.
I have never used this formula because Kasenit was always available though over here in our damp climate the bottoms of the tins always seem to rust out with regular monotony, so my Kasenit lives in an 8 oz. Coffee jar.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,991
Likes: 402
SKB Offline OP
Sidelock
***
OP Offline
Sidelock
***

Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,991
Likes: 402
The key to correctly hardening your sear Stan is to identify what type of steel you have. Try bringing it up to cherry red and quenching in oil, if it becomes hard you have high carbon steel and need to temper it. Most sears on good quality guns are made of high carbon. If you use Kasenit or another method of pack hardening on high carbon steel you will through harden it and it will be very brittle and chipping or even breaking the sear tip is a likely outcome. Surface hardening compounds are for use on low carbon steel which impart a hard outer skin while leaving the inner core ductile. Hope that helps.
Steve


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

Here for the meltdowns
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 1
Sidelock
**
Offline
Sidelock
**

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 1
Originally Posted By: damascus
Sometimes I feel that starting out in Engineering not long after the end of WW2 here in Brit land did give an insight into that Brit mind set of “make do and mend.” For a long time every day engineering consumables where not available so substitutes where quickly found. Now I am not saying that the substitutes where as good as the real thing but they did come in as a good second. From the now very tatty paged note book I kept with all those little snippets of information so from the page containing such useless information now but back then priceless, how to use Tin Lead soft solder and a soldering Iron to solder connections to Aluminium.

Dipping case hardening Powder all ingredients are by volume.
8 parts of coal dust
5 parts of powdered Carbon/Charcoal
5 parts of powdered sugar.
From my notes, the sugar and coal dust make a crust on the hot metal keeping the mixture in contact.
I have never used this formula because Kasenit was always available though over here in our damp climate the bottoms of the tins always seem to rust out with regular monotony, so my Kasenit lives in an 8 oz. Coffee jar.





I'd be interested in any of those old recipes and dodges Damascus. Working in the engineering trades myself, i find a lot of new tools, compounds, products, even down to paint have been so tampered with over the years, to appease the green brigade, that most are useless.

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 192
Sidelock
***
Offline
Sidelock
***

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,122
Likes: 192
Bonny from another page
Crucible colouring case hardening compound substitute. Blood Fish and Bone garden fertilizer (people where still expected to grow what food they could, so garden chemicals where available) you mixed one to one with powdered charcoal the colour imparted on the metal was on the blue side but not too bad looking.


The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 12
Sidelock
***
Offline
Sidelock
***

Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 54
Likes: 12
Originally Posted By: keith
Kasenit originally used Potassium Ferrocyanide, but I think they changed the formula before they quit making it. But any of the surface hardening compounds are just that. They are not a good substitute for the pack case hardening that can take several hours to get even 1/64" deep. There is no appreciable diffusion of carbon more than a thousandth or two deep from a quick case hardening process. There are a number of different ways to add carbon to the surface of milder steel including heating in an acetylene rich, or carburizing flame before quenching. I've made some emergency thread chasing taps or dies by putting a nut on a bolt and drilling some longitudinal holes through the thread juncture 60 or 90 degrees apart to create flutes. Then I unscrewed them and heated the nut or bolt red hot and dipped it in sugar. Then I heated it cherry red again and quenched. The sugar contains a lot of carbon, and hardens the surface enough to chase some damaged threads. Better than nothing in a pinch, but no substitute for a properly hardened tap or die made of good tool steel. I'm still hoarding my partial can of the old Kasenit too.



I too have used the sugar method when I was stuck in Ulm,Germany whilst riding my 1954 Matchless motorcycle to Istanbul.The main jet was too small and I made a half round reamer out of a tent peg,,case hardened it with sugar and opened the jet out to a more acceptable size. Slightly off topic but with a vintage element to it !


As our language becomes impoverished,,our thinking shrinks to fit.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,145
Likes: 1145
Sidelock
**
Online Content
Sidelock
**

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,145
Likes: 1145
Originally Posted By: SKB
The key to correctly hardening your sear Stan is to identify what type of steel you have. Try bringing it up to cherry red and quenching in oil, if it becomes hard you have high carbon steel and need to temper it. Most sears on good quality guns are made of high carbon. If you use Kasenit or another method of pack hardening on high carbon steel you will through harden it and it will be very brittle and chipping or even breaking the sear tip is a likely outcome. Surface hardening compounds are for use on low carbon steel which impart a hard outer skin while leaving the inner core ductile. Hope that helps.
Steve


Tremendous help, Steve. Thank you very much.

SRH


May God bless America and those who defend her.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 384
mc Offline
Sidelock
**
Offline
Sidelock
**

Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,857
Likes: 384
if you use garden bone fertilizer you need to cook it in a metal tin with a small air hole in the top over a heat source.it will smell terrible ,you can use regular bbq charcoal with out the match light starter,soaked in water to break down the binder and dey i an over after drying in the sun.

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Link Copied to Clipboard

doublegunshop.com home | Welcome | Sponsors & Advertisers | DoubleGun Rack | Doublegun Book Rack

Order or request info | Other Useful Information

Updated every minute of everyday!


Copyright (c) 1993 - 2024 doublegunshop.com. All rights reserved. doublegunshop.com - Bloomfield, NY 14469. USA These materials are provided by doublegunshop.com as a service to its customers and may be used for informational purposes only. doublegunshop.com assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions in these materials. THESE MATERIALS ARE PROVIDED "AS IS" WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANT-ABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR NON-INFRINGEMENT. doublegunshop.com further does not warrant the accuracy or completeness of the information, text, graphics, links or other items contained within these materials. doublegunshop.com shall not be liable for any special, indirect, incidental, or consequential damages, including without limitation, lost revenues or lost profits, which may result from the use of these materials. doublegunshop.com may make changes to these materials, or to the products described therein, at any time without notice. doublegunshop.com makes no commitment to update the information contained herein. This is a public un-moderated forum participate at your own risk.

Note: The posting of Copyrighted material on this forum is prohibited without prior written consent of the Copyright holder. For specifics on Copyright Law and restrictions refer to: http://www.copyright.gov/laws/ - doublegunshop.com will not monitor nor will they be held liable for copyright violations presented on the BBS which is an open and un-moderated public forum.

Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5
(Release build 20201027)
Responsive Width:

PHP: 7.0.33-0+deb9u11+hw1 Page Time: 0.054s Queries: 31 (0.034s) Memory: 0.8391 MB (Peak: 1.8990 MB) Data Comp: Off Server Time: 2024-04-19 01:49:39 UTC
Valid HTML 5 and Valid CSS