doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com Rusted shut

I don't think destroying it will be necessary.

That gun is a perfect candidate for sonic cleaning, and electrolytic rust removal.

Electrolysis does not remove engraving or wallow out screw holes.

I can't wait to see it brought back to life

In the past when I was an apprentice besides making the Tea by gallon one of the other chores was to make penetrating oil that was used by Engineers all over the works. Now I am not saying it was the best or any such other recommendations only that it worked well and is extremely cheap to make up, it was so cheap that there where buckets of the stuff doted over the factory each with a lid. If there were a lot of sized parts and the object was small enough it was put in one of the buckets and left there for as long as it takes.
Now I still make this up for use in my own workshop and it uses only three ingredients which are � pint of Paraffin Oil (Kerosene) � pint of cellulose paint thinners (the cheap stuff, the type for cleaning spray guns) and the last ingredient is a large spoon full (about 2 ounces) of Molybdenum Auto grease stirred in. The cellulose thinners do evaporate quickly so you do need to re-apply it. But if you can put the part in and leave it soaking you do get good quick results.

Anyone tried the spray-on freezing fluid? I have a can of CRC Freeze-off on my shelf - it can work well as a supplement to heating and penetrating oil.

It is unloaded isn't it?,,

With that one,,I'd suspend the action,,wood and all in your favorite penetrating oil concoction and let it sit for a while..
Muzzle down in a tube works well. No need to sink the stock any further than necessary past the metal work,

Yes the wood is going to soak it up as well,,but wood can be cleared of oil with simple whiting powder,,though it does take some time and patience.
You can use the often mentioned acetone & alcohol soln's and sun baked black plastic bags filled w/ kitty litter too.
But at least finish up with whiting powder mixed to a paste w/ alcohol and let set on the surface for a few days each time till absolutely no more oil weeps to the surface.

The wood & metal look rusted together. They need some help separating and especially on the flimsy LCS stock the last thing you want to see is part of the stock separating and stuck to the sides of the action tang or trigger guard as you pull them apart.
Everything inside and out will get the oil treatment and those screws will better respond to some heat afterwards to help w/removal.

There will be plenty to do w/the metal while the wood is repeatedly coated and brushed clear of the whiting as it soaks the oil from the stock.

Good luck on the project. Looks like somethings I'd do!

Yep, unloaded.

I didn't think about sticking it in a tube, muzzle down. I'll look into that. Not sure how much penetrant I can afford right this moment, but a tight fitting tube will keep the volume fairly small perhaps.

Use something simple & cheap like kerosene and a bit of mineral spirits/paint thinner.
It'll work about as well as anything especially when soaked in it.

I use PVC pipe with a PVC end cap cemented on with the PVC pipe glue for a dunk tube. Use another end cap for a cover for storage if you're not dumping it out right away.
I use the same set up for damascus etch and it's been secure for many years.

After soaking and trying heat I've had good luck putting the gun into my chest freezer. Cold causes metal to contract and helps break the rust bond. Repeat if needed.

I just hung parts from a very brown 1875 Parker in the tank I use for cleaning my skeet tubes. It is full of Acetone and ATF.
Rust came off with ease and parts were clean!

bill