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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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the case crushes when I use the .373 expander and try to put the jacketed .375 in it. No way it's going in the case. Most of my reloading dies are larger than the .375 so I'll have to get a new one.

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Mike - I have been making these cases from Hornady .405 Win with no issues. They need trimming to length, and the rim diameter has to be reduced, as does the thickness (I make it suit my rifle). The Hornady brass is a little thicker than Bertram, and yields a minimal clearance in my rifle's chamber.

I'm not sure what is the cause of the case crushing, I use a .373 expander also, and the Hornady jacketed bullets seat with no trouble. I flare the case mouth to seat cast bullets.

My rifle looks like it was made in the same batch as the one you have, except it has the 320 grain proof. She is a shooter!

Is your barrel left hand twist?

PM me if you'd like to see my loads.

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Mike Harrell,
I suggest you chamfer the inside of the case mouths and slightly bell them, your trouble with crushing the cases should go away, if you are careful in starting them.
Mike

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Mike,

If you are having to reduce rim thickness for your rifle, you might want to look at the Jamison/CapTech 35 Winchester cases. The rim is thinner than the 405, but same basic case. Its a problem we run into when forming 35W cases from 405s for some guns.

Thaine


It ain't ignorance that does the most damage, it's knowing so derned much that ain't so! J. Billings
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I think the 35 Winchester case is a little short for this job.

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Mike, you are correct, my bad. It would be close after expanding the neck, but not perfect. I keyed off the rim thickness and forgot the overall length was .085 short before forming.
Thaine


It ain't ignorance that does the most damage, it's knowing so derned much that ain't so! J. Billings
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Cases being .085 short shouldn't hurt much, if you have a neck left. Just seat bullets to same oal.
Mike

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Since it was reblued poorly I'm going to have it redone correctly. Anyone know of an engraver that would be interested in redoing the "Shot and regulated by H&H with address" on the barrel? Want to have that redone first.

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Mike Harrel,
More than the bluing, the polishing was poorly done. To straighten the polishing out will require hand polishing, including file work in certain places to correct rounded off edges and corners, etc. Turnbull specializes in this type work, but there are others that can do a nice polish and rust blue job.
Mike

Last edited by Der Ami; 07/23/17 11:17 AM.
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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
....To straighten the polishing out will require hand polishing, including file work in certain places to correct rounded off edges and corners, etc....

Since it came up, I think Der Ami is right. To do things correctly, I think it'd be quite a job. I think that rifle would have stories to tell if it could. I'd think it could be up and shooting again with the same feel and handling like from some time long gone, just not likely look quite the same. From this point on, it could be cared for to preserve what's left of the original markings, and be a shooter. I think prioritizing the H&H markings would be incidental to all else that might be done in a quality rehab. Here's hoping you can figure out the right bit for you. I for one would love to shoot the rifle.

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