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Joined: Jul 2005
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I am offering a seminar in Metal Preparation: Rust and Nitre Bluing for custom gunmakers. I do not do double barrels in class because of all the possible problems. I do teach the complete methods for rust and nitre bluing. I have room for two student starting the last week in June in Livingston, Montana. Here are the details: http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=474289#Post474289

In Class, parts ready to card, perhaps the third coat, at least 3 more to go.


I've been using this brand of wheel for more than 3 decades. This is a brand new spare I purchased more than 20 years ago. It may give you some notion of the manufacturer to source.


End Label of box, note it is Straight Steel, #16.643-1, 6", 4 rows of bristles, .003" wire diameter.

Last edited by SDH-MT; 05/07/17 04:36 PM. Reason: edit
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This is the wheel I'm now using and have used for many years. I run it in one direction and find that until the wires crush like this it is way too aggressive for the finish I'm looking for. The wheels take a lot of break in to achieve the correct softness.The speed they card at is also paramount to a super smooth and shiny finish.


In use carding a finely engraved scope ring half.

Last edited by SDH-MT; 05/07/17 05:03 PM.
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IMHO, blacking fluid steel is very different than pattern-welded barrels. I use completely different types of wheels for each, and even yet different ones for Brown & White. Fluid steel is considerably easier, with the one exception being barrel prep, with the final grit being much higher. I have found that ragged wheels in some instances can leave scratches in the finish, and also lose considerable efficiency since Damascus and Twist require a little more aggressive carding, depending upon the rusting stage. It's much more of a build-up, tear-down process, necessary to achieve both pattern clarity and high contrast.

Just a little clarification between fluid steel and pattern-welded tubes, I also use a similar, six-inch wheel mounted in my drill press running in one direction for fluid steel. However, I don't use it for Damascus or Twist.

Regards
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 05/07/17 08:19 PM.

I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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First reason I'm looking at adding a wheel to my option is arthritis. Carding with steel wool for much of the day hurts the next. When I get the Baldor set up and wheel on it, I'll make the wise choice and test on my own pieces first.

I've also got a slow-moving drill press to run if need be. The hold up as been the wheels.

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If your Baldor runs 3250 rpm it would be way too fast for anything I would be carding.
Even 1750 is a might fast for my work.
Ken, maybe you could share with us what wheels you use for "pattern welded"
or damascus steel?

Last edited by SDH-MT; 05/07/17 09:40 PM. Reason: edit
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Here's my pattern-welded barrel carding setup. The wheels are .003 wire, three inch diameter wheels with one inch wire length. One wheel has four rows, the other has two. They are mounted in VSR drills. The four row is used for the overall tubes, the two row specifically for rib joints and lump/hanger areas. The drills are leaning on the barrel fixtures, designed so the barrels can be rotated easily during the process. The steel comb and file cleaner are used to dress the wheels between each set. So far, those wheels have done around 40 sets.

With the tubes mounted with breech to the left, and working from the center of the set, wheel rotation when working towards the breech is clockwise, so they "roll off" when at the edge rather than coming down on it. Reverse for the muzzle, wheel spinning counter-clockwise.

I use corded drills, but when using cordless, it would typically take one entire battery charge (18 volt Dewalt) to do one set. The paint brush is for dusting after carding.

Once done with the wheels, it's important to go over the tubes with 0000 steel wool. They should feel slick. Areas with "drag" need additional carding, either with the steel wool or with a wheel.

Regards
Ken


Last edited by Ken61; 05/09/17 06:45 AM.

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THANKS KEN~~~

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Originally Posted By: SDH-MT
If your Baldor runs 3250 rpm it would be way too fast for anything I would be carding. Even 1750 is a might fast for my work.

I found a variable speed controller from Harbor Freight that states it will work for 15amp and below motors. In a demonstration video, the fellow is using it with a router table. The Baldor is not in front of me to look right now, but I also have a slower drill press I can use when I get the wheels.

https://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html

Wish I could make a trip to Montana for one of your classes.

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Originally Posted By: B. Graham
....I found a variable speed controller from Harbor Freight that states it will work for 15amp and below motors. In a demonstration video, the fellow is using it with a router table....

Check first before you buy it. That style of variable speed control is meant for universal type electric motors, the kind with the brushes. If you have a Baldor, it probably has an induction motor. Best of luck with it.

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That speed controller will most likely NOT work with a buffer, especially not a Baldor.
I ran into the same issue several years ago, where I wanted to slow down buffers and belt sanders. I called several companies that specialize in custom made motor controllers, they all stated that trying to electronically control the speed on single phase motors, would quickly burn the motors up.
I finally solved the issue by going with 3 phase motors and adding a Variable Frequency Drive (VFD). Now I can go as slow as 1 RPM or as fast as the motor is rated with no loss of HP, and no fear of burning up the expensive motors. Three belt sanders and two buffers in the shop, now all with VFDs and 3 phase Baldor motors. Dont know how I ever lived without it.

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