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Joined: Feb 2004
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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My easy source for virtually indestructible pins for such tools are the bearing needles from old universal joints. Your mechanic (if you let someone else work on your vehicle) probably has a bucket full of them. Holes can be drilled in the end of a piece of suitable tool steel, and then heat treated, to make the tool shank. I don't believe I've broken one yet.

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I was told by a Stateside Brit, if worst comes to worst solder a bolt to the disc. Then double nut the bolt and use a box end wrench on the bottom nut. I apologize if my American English is unclear. I do know about pins and turnscrews. Don't know if a box end wrench is a spanner. In my limited work I've seen significantly more problems with disc set strikers than hammers with integral firing pins.

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I will resend .

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I don't know if he still does, but, at one time, Cole Haugh made and sold a dandy tool for the job:



The idea above for using needle bearings to make the pins is a great one.

Problems with disc set strikers? Do elaborate. If you have a disc set striker fail, and you have the tool and a spare, you can be up and running as soon as you get back to the truck. If you don't have the tool and spares, shame on you. You at least had the option.
If you break an integral striker/hammer, you are done for that season, and, often, the gunsmith doesn't get the repair quite right. It is a difficult task.
Few of us will ever own a detachable lock Westley with a spare set of locks to get us back up and running. Few detachable lock Westleys even came with spare locks. Disc set strikers are the next best thing.

Best,
Ted

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In theory that is quite correct and valid. But when you have to put the action in a mill to apply enough down pressure with the quill to be able to break the strickers loose, isn't all that easy. So far I have worked on a Citori that wouldn't budge, and as the pins were ok we didn't destroy the bushings. A Spanish gun we had to put in the mill. An AYA and a Webley that required making tools with square shank screw drivers to use a wrench to break them loose. Forgot the Uggie, that only required making a tool.

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My tool is for an Uggy, and that gun has the bushing with three pins. Not sure if the guns that use just two pins are such a great idea.
I have seen guns with witness marks to align the bushing, mine doesn't have them.
Cole Haugh went to the trouble to aneal and re-harden all the bits in my gun, and when it came back with the laundry list I sent him completed, I checked the bushings-no problem to remove either. My ten year old can do it.
I've seen a couple truly ugly repairs to integral strikers, including a metric bolt threaded into the hammer, welded, and whittled away until it went through the breech face. If you tore up a bushing, would it not be easier to duplicate than an integral striker?
I'll still take my chances with disc sets before integral strikers. When it does work right, it is really easy.

Best,
Ted

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Ted,

We are all thrilled to again hear how much you love disc set strikers and hate strikers integral with the hammer. We are also happy for you that your 10 year old son can remove the disc set strikers from your Uggy. We should all be so lucky!

If you have followed this thread & others on the same subject you should realize by now that disc set strikers can often be very difficult to remove no matter how many pins the tool has or how carefully the tool is fitted & since most higher grade guns usually have index marks on the striker disc & breech face & or locking screws I don't think most discs are stuck because they were over tightened by Bubba as you have indicated before.

Does it say anything to you that the Menck tool & others are set up to use a 3/8" or 1/2" socket or box end wrench?

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Originally Posted By: Brittany Man
Ted,

We are all thrilled to again hear how much you love disc set strikers and hate strikers integral with the hammer. We are also happy for you that your 10 year old son can remove the disc set strikers from your Uggy. We should all be so lucky!

If you have followed this thread & others on the same subject you should realize by now that disc set strikers can often be very difficult to remove no matter how many pins the tool has or how carefully the tool is fitted & since most higher grade guns usually have index marks on the striker disc & breech face & or locking screws I don't think most discs are stuck because they were over tightened by Bubba as you have indicated before.

Does it say anything to you that the Menck tool & others are set up to use a 3/8" or 1/2" socket or box end wrench?



I gave the gent a suggestion on a tool. I took a picture of it, so that he could perhaps duplicate it. The design is rather clever, with the pins coming to rest in three sets of holes, rather than just one hole for each pin. The right tools make a huge difference. Threaded bits can and do get stuck, good maintenance can correct most of that.

I have no tools that require a 1/2 socket drive for my guns, bicycles, or, my wrist watches. I'll guess things are as they should be, here.

How, exactly, did your post help the OP in any way?


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Ted

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Ted,

My post along with some of the other posts give the OP a little support in that he is not alone on having difficulty removing striker discs.

You however continue to post that you have never had a problem removing the disc from your Uggy & apparently don't or won't understand that disc set striker often cause more problems than they solve.

I have guns with both & disc set strikers & strikers integral w/the hammers & I've never broken a striker on either one but I have needed to remove the strikers from a couple of guns w/disc set strikers to reshape the end of the striker & there is no way I could have got the striker discs out w/o having the gun held firmly in a bench vise so I could apply proper torque to the disc. Definitely not a "field" repair in my limited experience.

Enjoy taking the striker disc out of that Uggy & I hope every striker disc you encounter comes out that easily.

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Ted,
I understood your post, thanks for the idea.
Mike

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