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kirkp #468006 01/06/17 01:12 AM
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Best thing I have ever soaked into a stock head was liquid acraglass thinned heavily with acetone. It soaked in like water and despite repeated soaking did not build up. It sealed and hardened like mad and is now my go to method to maintain shotguns against oil soaking and such. Steve

kirkp #468014 01/06/17 07:45 AM
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I agree with Hank in that as a first one it is better to have plenty of excess wood for those "Uh Ohs". With some experience you can drop that to 1/8 or even a little less. I also agree that it will be a fun and educational experience for you.


Sam Welch
kirkp #468033 01/06/17 11:05 AM
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Took my chunk of dense tupelo over to a friends house to cut it down since his bandsaw has enough depth. This stuff is so hard he preferred that I didn't cut it there. He has a good saw but it has a relatively narrow blade for more intricate cuts. Started looking at what else he had and he just happened to have a piece of poplar with decent grain that was thick enough and long enough to get a blank which will allow me to mock up the receiver. Now the adventure begins.

Steve, like your suggestion about thinned acra glass.

Thanks
Kirk

Last edited by kirkp; 01/06/17 11:06 AM.
kirkp #469150 01/14/17 10:41 PM
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If you really want some interesting reading on sidelock/ sidelock plate and parts inletting get a copy of "The Gumsmith of Grenville County" (Building the American Longrifle) by Peter A. Alexander. If you are good with Acraglass Gel and spray release agent you can build-up the internal missing parts with that product (Brownells)

Believe me when I tell you it is not as easy as just removing all the wood that does not resemble a shotgun stock. It takes a lot of careful spotting-in and paring away as well as a minds eye for what you want the result to be.

Good luck!!


Ken @ padnchecker
kirkp #469220 01/15/17 05:27 PM
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Ken, really appreciate the info on the book. I'll have to check it out, especially if in your opinion it gives some good direction on the process. Not hard to imagine based on my questions that "I am not good with Acraglass".

We will see how it goes with the stock. I'm not expecting perfection but I do have a good eye when it comes to replicating something. Maybe part of my engineering background. Hopefully if I go slow I'll be able to pull it off.

Pictures to come.
Kirk

kirkp #469803 01/19/17 07:12 PM
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A bit of an update which I will probably make in a couple of posts since I hate when they get toooo long.

First off I want to give a big thanks to Sam Welch (SamW) since he's been very helpful. He's given me a lot of info from when he worked on his Batavia along with a lot of photos.

So, I've been contemplating my path forward maybe to the point of overthinking. I'm in the process of rebuilding the original stock to replace missing wood where it mates up to the receiver.

I cut my practice blank out of some poplar which isn't the full stock length but will allow me to fit the entire receiver and trigger assembly. In a earlier post I questioned how much extra wood to leave and for better or worse I cut the blank out with 1/8" extra before getting the responses to leave a 1/4". Will have to make do I guess.

I've been trying to get a decent pattern of the top tang. If I try to get the complete tang, it gets difficult at the end where the curves compound to match up to the receiver. I made a partial pattern where it's easy to trace and using my engineering skills whistle I was able to determine where it would fall on the stock. Still pondering my path forward as I work on repairing the stock.


Sam indicated that although it has been awhile he seems to remember that he started short and worked his way back.


As I was pondering the stock, I thought I'd assemble the receiver to see what all I'll be dealing with during inletting. In my opinion, there is so much packed into the small action that it's hard to believe that I'll be able to get much more wood.



Should be interesting to say the least. Have some more thoughts that I'll put in another post regarding the parts that need to be fabricated/modified.

Later
Kirk

kirkp #469812 01/19/17 08:24 PM
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Shoot for the moon with your inletting, Kirk. What I mean is, attempt to leave every smidgen of wood possible, even if you've never seen anyone else's inletting like that. That way you'll end up with all that is possible, IMO. When I inletted this percussion side lock I left a little piece of wood that nobody leaves, as it really doesn't add much to strength. A mentor told me he'd never seen anyone leave that area, but was very impressed.



The little arrowhead shaped piece is what I'm referring to. It is inside a leaf spring that acts as the sear spring on the Schillinger lock.



Every little bit adds to the support surface area for the lock. Necessary? ..... probably not. Nice? ........ I think so.

SRH

Last edited by Stan; 01/20/17 08:20 AM. Reason: error in text ...

May God bless America and those who defend her.
kirkp #469838 01/20/17 12:34 AM
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Awesome work


Michael Dittamo
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Stan, you are a very lucky guy! I have 2 of Mr. Schillinger's beautiful locks. They are simply the best percussion locks I have ever seen. Every part made of the finest material and polished to the highest degree. Fitted perfectly and they deserve to be mounted on the best gun possible. One is for a 1 inch barrel and the other is for a 1&1/8 inch barrel. I bought them 40 years ago and still have not seen any better. His triggers and rifle sights were also of the highest possible finish. That "old man" could really make something!

kirkp #469913 01/20/17 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted By: kirkp
....As I was pondering the stock, I thought I'd assemble the receiver to see what all I'll be dealing with during inletting. In my opinion, there is so much packed into the small action that it's hard to believe that I'll be able to get much more wood....

I'm probably seeing things wrong here, but maybe take things apart. Don't loose the fit to the back of the action at the head, but you may be able to let the top tang down into the wood instead of back. Then maybe add things one at a time. Maybe the bottom tang/trigger plate next, then side plates, and guts last. Only thoughts kirk, thanks for the updates.

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