doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com LC Smith 10 gauge hammer gun - newest new project

Having got the Remington 10 gauge in shooting condition, I set it aside to start work on the LC Smith 10 gauge hammer gun that the man in a brown van brought yesterday. It seems to be a very sound and solid gun with nice bores and solid lockup. The numbers match.

The major problem is that the stock is broken clean through under the locks - right through the bolt hole that runs from top tang to trigger plate. I think there is a good chance I can rejoin the parts with little evidence of repair.

The related peoblem is that the trigger plate is also broken. I've made a first pass at welding it back together.

That style lock was used from 1883 to sometime in 1897. After that it was a 6 pin lock, the 6th pin is taking the place of the block that the short leg of the mainspring rested on.

If the serial number is below 26,500 it should have L.C. Smith Maker Syracuse, N.Y. and would be from around 1889.

These were very well made, excellent wood, fine checkering even on the Qlty F (24 lpi). If from around that time period would have the vase shaped ebony tipped for-end.

Look at the way the receiver is milled out in the leg section to accept the bar action mainspring.

Make sure to post pictures of your fix.

Not a pretty sight. This is my first pass at welding the broken trigger plate with MIG welder. I just hit this side with a light spot to get it stuck in right position. Looks like the position is good. I welded the back side more. I've cleaned off the excess and grooved out some places for a second pass. It's 100� heat index outside and at least 150 in the metal shed where I have the welder so the second pass will be tried when it's cooler.

Speaking of the action lever V spring, I have seen a YouTube viseo showing a fixture to compress the spring to install the trigger plate. Is there a procedure to compress the spring without making a fixture?

There are numerous ways but I find this to be the easiest.

I use a 6" c clamp that has a 3/32 drill blank that is 1 1/2" long mounted in the top jaw. Drill a 1/8" hole as shown in picture. Put left lock plate on and put pin of c clamp in hole on right side. Put moveable jaw over lock on left and turn handle until top lever is centered in trigger plate opening for top lever.

Your method works the same as in the YouTube video. How in the world did they assemble them at the factory?

I'm tempted to use a small punch to pull the action shaft over inline with the trigger plate hole.

Hunter Arms Co. used a 3/32 punch with the aid of a wedge shaped screwdriver (the blade was notched to a V) and used this to push the punch over to align the two. If you just try the punch you will break the punch.

So...The V-shaped blade is apllied on top (outside) of the trigger plate aginst the punch that is in the hole? Thus you can push the punch over rather than levering it over?

Looks like when things start to align, you could put some down pressure on the screwdriver tool to push trigger plate down.

Every one of these old doubles are a puzzle to figure out.

Serial # is 147xx.

It takes a bit of practice to get barrels on the action with the rotating extractor system.

That is an early Syracuse L.C. Smith from around 1884.

Yes, that is the way they did it.
I tried the Hunter Arms way with the punch and screw driver once. I didn't like it. If you slip the screw driver can slide across the metal and gouge the wood finger. The workers did this day in and day out and it was easy for them.

If you rotate the pin on the joint check to 5:30 and align it with the slot in the receiver it should go in the first time.

I do like how far these guns open when you break them, makes shell extraction very easy.

How about instead of a V, just drill a hole in the blade? Just thread the punch through the hole in the blade, hole in the plate and into the hole in the shaft?

Being made in Syracuse, that's to say it was made by Baker?



Here is my New Baker Syracuse 10 gauge on top, Baker Batavia Leader 12 gauge (before I repaired forend latch and cleaned it up) and Stevens 311A 12 gauge.

I've shot all three in cowboy action shooting matches. The Stevens is far more practical for the game. And no, I didn't cut the barrels. I bought it that way. I just cleaned it up and had chambers and forcing cones cut for modern 2-3/4" shells. I shoot roll crimped black powder loads in Baker Leader.

You could try that, but the wedge shape of the blade I think would work out better. Give it a try and let us know how that works.

In 1877 Lyman Cornelius Smith bought into the Baker Gun Co and formed the Smith Baker Gun Co. Guns now had on the barrels L.C. Smith Maker of Baker Guns, Syracuse, N.Y.