doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com Removing finish build up in checkering

I have a few pieces of wood that have an abunance of oil finish in their checkering, and the checkered areas a slippery. I'd like to remove some of it, without refinishing the entire piece.

If this is doable, I'm thinking I'd mask off well, and gently use a solvent of some sort, and a soft little tooth brush to scrub it out.

What am I not thinking of? Is this a disaster waiting to happen? Just interested in making a modest improvement and learning along the way.

Thanks.

Over finishing is a problem with the rub-a-dub set.
I see dozens of over finished guns, and am offered dozens of products, solely for the purpose of rub-a-dubbing.

It's a scourge among SxS afficionados. Worse yet, people think evidently that more finish is even better, so they rub-a-dub until an old shellac finished gun looks like a Citori.

To answer your question, you can mechanically remove some with sharp checkering tools or needle files, a toothbrush with some fine abrasive, perhaps but more realistically, it's a solvent and replacement job.
It's possible the checkering was worn off, and replaced by carving new diamonds into hard finish or super glue.

Proceed with caution, look carefully at what you are trying to change.

I like a soft and warm lustre, and not a high-gloss glassy finish. One of my other loves are old stringed instruments. I've been a double bass player for most of my life, and have spent a lot of time with hide glue, wooden cleats, and linen pathes. The newer high gloss lacquer finishes are not what an old hand rubbed oil finish is, and I like the same finish on a gun.

I don't want to cut anything. I think the tooth brush approach will be what I try. If I can't get it all out, at least I can knock off the glare a little bit and make it less slippery.

Proceed with caution
First do no harm
Might want to try cigar ash first

IN AN UNOBTRUSIVE PLACE to get an idea of how hard the finish is to cut back (like under the forearm or the trigger guard)

Cotton bud [think you call them Qtips ] and paint thinners . A small area at a time and when the oil/polish has been softened bush lightly/gently with a soft brass brush like a suede brush , brush not scrub . .
Try a small area at a time and be patient .You may have to go over it twice

This problem of filled in chequering is the gun buyers perennial problem and over many years I have dealt with it in many ways, I have come to the conclusion a feint hearted approach just makes hours of laborious boring work. Now I must say at the start that I have no fears at all in completely re finishing a gun stock and sometimes after hours and hours of work sorting out chequering I come to the conclusion a refinish was probably the best answer. That said I have found this method reasonably quick and very successful. First mask off the chequering using ELECTRICAL INSULATION TAPE do not use normal decorating or car paint paper masking tape firstly it allows things to creep under it whereas electrical tape does not. Also it has a far better quality adhesive and a superior grip. Then mask of the rest of the stock completely with polythene sheet which always takes longer than cleaning out the chequering. Then I use standard thixotropic paint stripper applied to the chequered area with a small brush leave the stripper to work the recommended time then remove the soffend finish with a small steel or brass brush. Tooth brushes work well for a couple of minutes then start to soften and dissolve. To neutralise the stripper before I remove the masking I use paint thinner. To remove the Electrical tape from the stock heat it with a hair dryer it relaxes its grip and there is less chance it will pull of any finish when you remove it.

Thank you all for your recommendations. I believe I can accomplish this. Once I do, should any finish be applied to the checkering, to at least provide some protection from water, dirt, etc.?

Just apply raw Linseed Oil to the chequering using a tooth brush, mop up any excess oil from the chequering with a paper towel.

Surprised by the use of electrical tape. I've never thought of it as particularly adhesive, but I will give it a try. Thank you.

To reiterate a point that has been covered many times, make sure you use a food grade raw linseed oil (flax) for the final coat. Do not use a utility grade type found at your local hardware store.

Regards
Ken