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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: B. Graham
He was given a Parker and this Sterlingworth. He kept that Parker.


Wrong choice wink!


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SKB Offline
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Depends upon the Parker.....


http://www.bertramandco.com/
Booking African hunts, firearms import services

Here for the meltdowns
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Sidelock
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Is my source for parts ahfoxparts.com, or are there other options likely to have 20ga ejectors I should check with?

The same friend who gave this to me has a machine shop and many years of gunsmithing experience. I would think what might be simpler than fitting new ejectors might be to drill a hole in each ejector where the pin used to be, make new pins of the right length and diameter, and press fit them into the ejectors.

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Originally Posted By: SKB
Repairing the top lever is very easy. First remove the trigger plate screw and see if the spring and stop are there. If they are then insert the stop in the proper orientation and you should be good to go.


Regarding the top level, what is the "proper orientation" for the stop? This would be the orientation of the flats the rib extension mates to, and I would orient it from the top or from the underside?

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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: B. Graham
Is my source for parts ahfoxparts.com, or are there other options likely to have 20ga ejectors I should check with?

The same friend who gave this to me has a machine shop and many years of gunsmithing experience. I would think what might be simpler than fitting new ejectors might be to drill a hole in each ejector where the pin used to be, make new pins of the right length and diameter, and press fit them into the ejectors.


That could very well be a viable solution but a hands on examination would be required in order to make that determination
Jim


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Originally Posted By: James M
That could very well be a viable solution but a hands on examination would be required in order to make that determination
Jim


Thanks Jim. I thought of it because I was using his gauge pins once to check mechanical dead center on some 1911 sights, and those pins look a lot like the pin that came out of the barrel flat hole.

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I saw a "gunsmith" deal with this problem with what I thought was wrong way to fix the problem at the time. He drilled out the ejector pin in the barrels. It spun out before he was half way done. He claimed they almost always released that way. Then he drilled the ejector .010 under the pin size, completely through the ejector. He made a new "pin" with a .010 reduction in the pin size on one end. Placed the pin into the barrel, through the ejector hole and welded it in place on the ejector face. Welded the other side, adjusted the pin length to proper length, and dressed the ejector face down and rear side until it was flat and the repair was invisible. I swear you could not see the repair was not factory.

I never thought about doing it that way but he used the barrels as a jig to hold the pin in perfect position and welded everything into place. Sad to say that "gunsmith" has since died but I no longer think that there is only one way to fix your problem. Thinking outside the box is a under appreciated skill too rarely seen today.

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I would think that fitting new pins would be a whole lot easier than buying and fitting new ejectors and cutting rim recesses.

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Ejectors are priced high and they take a good bit of fitting and then cutting shell rims.Bobby

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