doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Barrel rust blue preparation/polishing

Now, isn't this thread much more fun than one's that degenerate into "Pissing Contests"?

Not to say that pissing contest aren't fun, but are what Misfire's is for..

Yes, nickel steel was making big advances in the early 1900's as smokeless powder started to take over.

Best,

Thanks. Is it possible that the metal is too highly polished? For example, I'm getting pretty good coverage on the indented portions of the cylinder, but the rest of the area which was probably more highly polished is only rusting well in some areas.

Yes, precisely.....you could bead blast it down somewhat, then polish back up to 320 or 400 grit and try it again...should work, but may still be uneven based on the nickel content...?...

Hot blue is a sure thing if you want a higher gloss. Some also hot blue stainless now days and do a pretty good job. Smith and Wesson offers several revolvers in stainless blue, they look nice.

Best,

There is a lot of good info here, but also some Really bad, wrong, backwards.
Arguing about the water is just plain foolish. In Oregon I ran it out of the tap. In Montana I buy distilled. Please wear a dust mask when you card, especially if your solution has mercury!
Here is a link to photos of my process. I won't answer questions, so please don't email. I hope some pictures help some neophytes� I've been rust bluing for almost 40 years. The sweat box was made as an experiment almost 30 years ago and never replaced.
http://finegunmaking.com/page60/page60.html

I hope this question is not out of line, but many of us are still learning. What is "really bad, wrong, backwards" info?

I think that qualifies as a "Hit & Run". SDH does beautiful work, but I think like many professionals, he's leery of giving up his secrets so it doesn't affect his business. Understandable, and is a continuation of a centuries old tradition.

The rest of us "muddle through" and learn from our mistakes. I, for one, have made many, despite reading everything I could find on the internet. I have redone virtually every one of the first dozen Damascus and Twist guns I started with. If I had been closer, I think I'd have taken Diggory's course, but it wasn't an option.

One thing I've learned, unless you're a dedicated Do-it-Yourself type or have a large collection, you're better off sending a couple of guns out.

Rust-bluing requires being meticulous and paying attention to detail. For pattern-welded ones you additionally have to be downright "Anal" as far as details.

Ken

Here's three I just did the final card on. No oils or wax yet, but they have a very rich, deep black-slightly blue finish. I use an alcohol based Nitric Acid solution, the same one I'm using for my pattern-welded guns.


All are fairly humble guns. An Ithaca Flues on top, an Armas Erbi Sidelock in the middle, and a Crescent Hammergun on the bottom.

I don't post often, but this thread has been very interesting.

First, I would really wish the experts would provide their opinions on what is bad/wrong so those that are trying to learn cannot fall into some of the same traps. However, falling into those traps are sometimes the only real way to learn.

The other option is to take a class. I'm signed up to take my first summer NRA class and it is on slow rust bluing. I'm taking it at Trinidad, CO this June. I'm really looking forward to that class and this thread just make me wish June was hear already.

If I point put the bad stuff I become a target for criticism and I don't have thick enough skin. Neither do I want to argue or open the door for more questions. There are literally hundreds to things to be learned from my pictures, I share them freely but folks still want more. Do you think I would be posting them if I was, "leery of giving up his secrets so it doesn't affect his business."? I only rust blue my own guns and there is nothing to effect my business.

Student project 6/15, third or fourth rusting before carding. Ruger actions are notoriously difficult.

The quarter-rib carding, nice and shiny, Lee's first bluing.


I'd be glad to give a seminar on rust bluing, and have included it in other classes but it is a whole lot cheaper to go to Trinidad. How many want to sign up for $1500 for five days? I'll teach you everything I know and you will do a professional job the first time, learn all the tricks and go home with a finely blued gun. My stockmaking student pay more than that and keep coming back.
I love to teach and I love to write, I just think it is fair to be compensated for it. It's your hobby, it's my business.
Best to all,