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#386008 12/01/14 10:48 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
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murphy Offline OP
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Sidelock

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I recently purchased an older sxs with name barker. It is rough with quite a lot of rust on outside of barrel, the inside of barrels seem pretty clean. It has exposed hammers and some engraving on the receiver. I did not pay much for it and am thinking that I might try kerosene soak to clean up the barrels. My question is, will it work?

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Sidelock
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No, but it won't hurt either. You can use naval jelly to stop the rust but it will remove bluing too. Also where the rust was will be rough but it does work to stop rust down at the bottom of all the little pits and I don't know of anything else that does that.

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Use 0000 steel wool and WD-40. Nothing removes pits, but this will do as good a job as possible on surface rust.
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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JNW Offline
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Steel wool and Hoppes also works well for rust removal and the Hoppes is a moderate rust preventive. Cleaning up an old gun can be fun.
Regards,
Jeff

Last edited by JNW; 12/02/14 11:40 AM.

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I like to strip the rusty parts & boil them in water for a bit. just like in the boiling stage of rust bluing this tends to help loosen the rust making it easier to remove with the steel wool & may tend to "Black" it just a bit. After the final scrubbing give it one more trip through the boiling water, be sure it is good & hot so will dry immediately & then treat with your favorite rust preventive.


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That's fine IF you have a burner and boiling tank. Most don't.
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Thomas Barker by Janssen Fils & Cie and Pieper



1908 Sears catalog T. Barker


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Last year, I tried using feed grade molasses mixed with water as a rust remover for iron and steel. It was one of those "Where have you been all my life?" moments. It works great, and doesn't harm the good metal at all. There is no etching as with acids, and no hydrogen embrittlement of springs and critical parts as with electrolysis. It is non-toxic... you can dump the depleted solution on your lawn or shrubs. It lasts a long time, can be reused numerous times, and it is cheap. I paid $17.00 for a 50 lb. sack of dried molasses because I couldn't find the liquid molasses at any area feed stores. 50 lb. would make about 55 gallons of rust remover. Grocery store molasses is much more expensive and does not work as well as the feed grade stuff. It works by chelation like Evaporust, but is much less expensive. Drawbacks are that it is slow, and the fermented solution gets a bit stinky. Rusted items must be kept totally immersed in the solution. You would not want to use it indoors, but it is not as bad as some sources suggest. I read descriptions of a warm vomit or baby shit smell, but have not experienced anything even approaching that. I have a 5 gal. bucket of molasses solution in my garage that I may dump soon just so it doesn't freeze and crack the bucket, but it did not freeze when we got a few single digit night-time lows a couple weeks ago. I can't smell it at all with the lid on the bucket, and just take it outside to remove rusted items suspended by coat hanger wire. It does look really nasty when it ferments, but a scrub brush and garden hose rinse leaves perfectly clean steel or iron parts. It takes at least a week to work in warm weather, and up to a month in cold weather.

You can Google Search -- Molasses rust removal -- for lots more information.


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