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Hi ken

As far as I know spar varnish was bought in from specialised varnish manufactures it would not be cost effective to manufacture in small amounts. It is possible to purchase traditional spar varnish today but it will be at a price, though you could possibly find more information regarding spar varnish on the internet. I know this may be heresy to some folks but in its day spar varnish was the finest available so by thinning it made it perfect for applying by rag brush or hand on gun stocks amongst other things, and in our time polyurethane varnish far out performed other varnishes on the market and has been used in exactly the same way as spar varnish and I will put my hand up to doing it!!!!!!!!
The ‘red oil’ has always been manufactured from Alkanet root only, by adding Vandyke brown to the mix you will remove that unique red colour. Quality ‘Vandyke Brown’ pigment used in artist colour is manufactured from Iron Oxide and because of this it is extremely permanent and stable, because of this it is used to colour grain fillers as well as being used as a wood stain in its own right. The linseed oil in Andy’s version of red oil is raw oil that is no drying agent is added though the only difference between boiled and raw linseed oil is the boiled dries much faster.


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Ken61 Offline OP
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Damascus,

Here's what I found. Any suggestions for modifications for use on stocks? Linseed, Tung or Walnut oil?

Copal Varnish For Fine: Paintings, etc

Fuse eight pounds of the very cleanest pale African gum copal, and, when completely run fluid, pour in two gallons of hot oil; let it boil until it will string very strong; and in about fifteen minutes, or while it is yet very hot, pour in three gallons of turpentine, got from the top of a cistern. Perhaps during the mixing a considerable quantity of the turpentine will escape, but the varnish will be so much the brighter, transparent, and fluid; and will work freer, dry quickly, and be very solid and durable when dry. After the varnish has been strained, it" it is found too thick, before it is quite cold, heal as much turpentine and mix with it as will bring it to a proper consistence.


Read more: http://chestofbooks.com/home-improvement...I#ixzz2tJPPaLAZ

Thanks
Ken

Last edited by Ken61; 02/14/14 08:10 PM.

I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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Damascus,

I appreciate your response re. the use of Antimony Chloride.

I remember a comment about it's attempted use & and abandonment in one of Don Masters books.

Reading between the lines I'm thinking it was a "quick & dirty"
way of darkening light colored wood w/o the time & effort required by the traditional "red oil" method which does take some time for drying.

However, I would still like to give it a try on a piece of scrap just to see what the results are.

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Hi Ken sorry for the delay in replying I went on a fast trip to London to collect some parts for another back burner restoration project though not gun related.
I would stick to the well tried and tested formula for copal varnish and use Tung nut oil, I have made a form of copal varnish in very small amounts though quite a considerable time ago but according to my notes you use 2 parts Copal resin and I suggest artist quality to 3 parts oil. The oil will need to be extremely hot for the copal to dissolve as for adding the turpentine to the hot mixture I would give that a definite miss. Very hot oil and flammable turpentine could only be a recipe for a fire ball disaster, when the oil copal mix has cooled down it can become very thick then you add the turpentine to adjust its consistency to what you require.


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Ken61 Offline OP
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Thank you damascus,

And to all you others who have contributed to this thread....

Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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