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Joined: Jul 2011
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Gunwolf Offline OP
Sidelock
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Joined: Jul 2011
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My Gunsmith renovated and converted my old DWM Mauser bolt rifle to a "Stutzen". Wonderful work but what I like most is the Best London orange Silver's Recoil Pad.
I would like to know something about the history of this red pad and on which guns or rifles it is proper style?

Gunwolf

Joined: Feb 2008
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Sidelock
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Someone else can offer up the history, but the pad is considered classic and appropriate to any fine gun.

As to it being a recoil pad, we all need to revisit that. They are hard as a rock. You can round the edges to take out some of the bite, but you have to understand, going in, that they don't do much buffering. Should we maybe call them scratch proof, chip proof, or non-marring pads?

Joined: Feb 2004
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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You must mean the Silvers' "Brick", as they are affectionately known.....

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Sidelock
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I was tempted to put a Silvers pad on my .416 but....I've already perfected my flinch.


Dodging lions and wasting time.....
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Sidelock
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Brick red and orange are both available.

Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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I'll take a Too Hard pad over a Too Soft one any day. Back in 1968 I bought a new Italian made Richland Arms model 707 in 3" 20 gauge. The pad was about like a sponge. Even though I was only shooting 2½-1 loads through it & it weighed about 6¼ lbs recoil was vicious. A change to a firmer pad did wonders for it. Was then able to fire a limited amount of 3" shells with 1¼ oz shot OK.


Miller/TN
I Didn't Say Everything I Said, Yogi Berra
Joined: Feb 2012
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Sidelock
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Agree with 2-piper & at least for the first 25 years of it's life a S.W. Silver pad is definitely softer than a wood, steel or horn buttplate + if you must have a recoil pad rather than a checkered butt it looks "right" & it can be properly shaped.

About the only negatives I can think of is that they get a little slick on the face after the rubber ages a while & their weight may require removal of a little wood from the stock to maintain the original balance point.


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