doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Help filling the grain....

I know what 'boiled' linseed is.

I boil linseed, carnuba wax, beeswax, venice turpentine and add terebine driers.

One thing I've learned (the hard way) from painting vehicles is to segregate your abrasive paper. I store my paper flat in a rack with the finest 2500 grit on top so that any abrasive particles that may come loose can only get onto a coarser paper stored below. And I've read that many custom stockmakers do the same and will not even have different grits on the bench at the same time. A piece of abrasive grit from 220 on your 2000 wet or dry paper will make a nice scratch that will have to be sanded out. Cleaning with compressed air or a tack cloth between grits is a good idea. I've completely gotten away from steel wool for whiskering because of the pieces that can become embedded in the pores.

..."because of the pieces that become embedded in the pores". My point exactly; there is no way to remove all of the microscopic tailings that will break off in the process. In the end, in the sunlight, you will see them. Stick with graded paper as it is designed for the task at hand.

Agree--grade your paper...AND, don't buy "seconds" which is pulled out by quality control for being contaminated with a few particles of extra size. Yes, they put in random scratches and require backing up. My point on going to finer abrasives is this--practically start there. Some seem to me to take off too much wood when refinishing by assuming aggressive papers are required to take it down to new wood first. NOt! Steam out dents and perhaps scrape with glass first, then begin with six or eight hundred grit to just take the old finish down to the level of the wood. It will already be filled over much of the surface in that way. Less is more in by book. My biggest enemy is myself, so I constantly strive to practice restraint. Steve

My use of steel wool, as noted above,is only on large areas to cut the finish down to the wood.I never said I used it to "wisker" the wood.The way I use it, removal of any small bits is no problem.I do this, I'm not saying anybody else has to.
Mike

Correct, it is quite useful for cutting back layers of finish which are looking a bit soft or uneven. Dip it in oil, rub softly. You never get near the wood, you are just cutting back finish very gently. Wet and dry does the job too.

Another strike against using steel wool is its propensity for dipping into the pores and removing finish from them, when rather the stuff needs to be cut off clean with the surface. If one insists on using steel wool, one is further advised to use de-oiled stuff, or buy non-oiled wool to begin with. Hardware store grade steel wool is lightly oiled so it doesn't rust while waiting to be sold. And they don't use linseed oil for that purpose.

Twice in my life I sat in driving rain and watched the 'oil' finish used to both fill pores and finish the wood wash off of rifle stocks. Lesson learned in that account. Now I use barrier-type finishes for pore filling and general finishing. Final rubbing out can leave a finish that the great unwashed masses mistake for a 'hand rubbed oil finish', but one that stays put in extreme conditions.

I've been using Mirlon (www.mirka-usa.com) as a substitute for steel wool. It a non woven abrasive scuff pad sold in woodworking stores that is available in 360, 1500 & 2500 grit. Sort of similar to Scotch Brite.

I primarily use wet or dry abrasive paper but something like steel wool does have its place at times & I find Mirlon works much the same as steel wool w/o leaving particles that shine or potentially rust behind & you don't need to degrease it.

I especially like it for knocking the gloss back on some types finishes.

Advantage to the steel wool sort of products is taking off old dirt with some sort of liquid, gum up and you throw it away and start with a fresh piece. Disadvantages are many, not enough grits, too big a jump from one to the other, leave filings behind and don't cut down flat.

Every job has it's tool

Boats

Everyone has to make up his own mind, I made mine up. I use it dry and not de-oiled(I de-oil it to card rust bluing),mainly because it doesn't"load up" as badly with finish as fine abrasive paper(I have to use paper at edges,corners,etc to avoid rounding them over).
Mike