doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Lowering a comb - photoshop trial added

What's with this fixation on DAH? You need 2 points to draw a straight line. The forward point is the drop at the nose and is the more important, being much closer to the eye. Drop at the eye, or "drop at face" is the only drop that really matters, unless the drop at heel is so much that the heel digs into the shoulder. But 1/4-3/8" too little drop at the heel means little in and of itself. Do you really think 3/8" of recoil pad sticking above the shoulder will affect shootability?

Read this again...

First thing will be correct length of pull and pitch.

I am not going to be able to drop the heel by removing wood as it is only 5" tall right now. I want to bring the stock down at the front as I think the stock looks odd and unusually high at that point anyway. It seems to have a very deep "saddle," for lack of a better word, behind the pistol grip.

I have been comparing the gun to another SxS that I shoot well, and while not bringing it to the dimensions that my fitting says are "ideal," I think I am going to have the front of the comb taken down 1/2" and then tapered back to the heel to leave it (the heel) full height.

This will leave me with a little over 1 1/2" of drop at the comb, a little over 2" at the heel, and almost 15" length of pull. Plenty of wood left that if I decide to sell in the future there is still plenty of stock left for someone else to fit it to them.

CHAZ

How do you plan to alter the pitch?

You should be seeing all of the top rib....this isn't a rifle.

That's a weird looking stock....guess that's why the gun sold so cheap.

From what I'm seeing you don't need to touch the drop at the butt plate most likely just behind the pistol grip.

Unless you want it to shoot high, seeing all of the rib is NOT what you want. Just the bead is all you should see for a flat-shooting gun.
JR

Rule of thumb I was taught was to stack two quarters on the rib at the receiver and you should just barely see the bead over them. I could lay a roll of quarters on the rib now and still see over.

As far as the pitch of the stock is concerned it needs to be shortened just a little, so I should be able to adjust the pitch of the butt when doing so.

CHAZ

Like most "rule of thumb" advice, pretty worthless. Never heard that one before.

If you want a flat-shooting gun, you just want to see the bead, no rib. For 60/40, maybe a little rib.
JR

My only comment, which you probably know from previous work is to not use the rasp to your final dimension, if that is what you decide to do.

When you get close to the final dimension, switch to a fine cutting file.

I only use rasps for gross removal of wood at the beginning of a project, as they tear the wood fibers and a PITA to clean up if you go too far with one.

There's another route to take for 'comb lowering"-- put a rooster's head on the old chopping block, swing the old Plumb or Marbles axe correctly, and the head and comb fall to the ground, while the wings beat like the rotor blades on a UH-1 "Huey" with a worn "Jesus Nut"--