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#323588 05/04/13 04:20 PM
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What's the best way to remove a front bead from a shotgun? I suppose I could just clamp down on it with a pair of pliers but I would like to retain it in case I want to reuse it.


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A pin vise

Here's a link to a picyure of one, you can buy them individualy

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=84K7270&CMP=KNC-GPLA&mckv=|pcrid|20115737061|plid|

Last edited by oskar; 05/04/13 04:41 PM.

After the first shot the rest are just noise.
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Most vintage doubles have 'press fit' brass beads, and they are tough to yank/twist out Phil. Use lots of electricians tape on the rib and adjacent barrels (don't ask me how I know that frown )
The hole is usually too big for a 3-56 so will need to be drilled and tapped for a 6-48.
BTW: has Spring made it to the prairie yet? smile

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I use a small smooth jawed pliers with a tiny piece of very thin leather to protect the bead on those that are screwed into the rib.
The leather is tough but very thin so you can still get a hold of the bead w/o damaging it. It's never failed for me. I never did have any luck with the assorted bead removal tools offered for the job.
Masking tape around the bead protects the rib from any slips. Take a piece and poke a hole in it and place it right over the bead and press is down around it. A couple layers helps.

On press fit beads, they pull right out using a small side cutter or end cutter with the edges ground so there is no relief on the face. Then just blunt the sharp cutting edge a bit, you won't be needing that action.

Cover the rib around the bead with tape or a tin piece of cardboard (match cover). Grab the bead at the lowest position possible, as close to the rib as the now thinned jaws allow.

Close the jaws carefully & firmly around the bead but don't apply too much preassure,,you don't want to snip it off!
Now lever the bead up and out of it's hole by simply pushing down on the handle of the cutters. The pivot point of the tool which will be on the rib itself will make for an easy lift of the bead from the hole.
This works nicely with ivory beads too. No cracking or shattering of the ivory.
..but don't assume that all ivory front sight beads are pressed into place. Some are threaded and screwed in place.

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Thanks folks. Drew, what is this "spring" you speak of? A couple weeks ago I worked in my yard in shorts and t-shirt; the next day I wore my duck hunting parka to work! Today it's low 40's,20-30mph winds and dreary/rainy. The wife's in Hill City this week; haven't talked to her today but I wouldn't be surprised if they had a bit of snow there; we had little earlier in the week.


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I would use a drop of WD40 or like the day before as this area is subject to moisture penetration.[rust].

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They were press fit Thanks for the help; the sidecutters worked great. My Sterlingworth 16 and 20 are sporting ivory beads today!


The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
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Kutter is a great source of ideas and information. One of the really good guys on this site. There are many, to be sure, but he stands out as one of the best and most willing to share information.


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On vintage Brit guns the front beads are more often than not threaded in to the top rib using 5 or 6 BA thread. So turning the bead anti clock wise before pulling is a far safer way to proceed!


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Originally Posted By: dmascus
On vintage Brit guns the front beads are more often than not threaded in to the top rib using a 5 or 6BA thread


Originally Posted By: Fin2Feather
They were press fit My Sterlingworth


damascus:

Same with American built vintage guns of older manufacture before the stock market crash and depression in this country.

Savage cheapened up the Sterlingworths and Foxes after they bought Fox in 1930. When they ran out of Philadelphia made Fox parts in 1931, the tapping and threading of beads is one of the steps they "dropped" as a function of cost reduction.

There are more "dropped" cost cutting production steps on the inside of the Savage built Sterlingworth and Fox guns as well.




Doug



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