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What a mistake that was. I know less than when I started. Apparently I am doing everything wrong -or maybe not. There is a lot of conflicting info out there, and even I recognize much of it to be BS.

Can somebody simply tell me what oil they apply to a garden-fresh rust blue? Does it even matter?

The internet says old (dirty?) engine oil, Tung oil, gun oil, and�it just keeps going. The unknown oil I always use ran out.

I believe Dr. Gaddy mentioned in his article on rust bluing, that he used either motor oil, or boiled linseed oil. I don't believe he specified used or new, but why use dirty. I have used both and like the boiled linseed oil better.
I heat the barrels warm to the touch and apply the linseed oil wih a cotton cloth, sparingly. In a day or so it hardens to a nice finish that lasts quite a long time.

With the oil finish, you have to heat the barrels also, it lets the oil get into the pores to seal them against the elememts and then you wipe it off. Linseed oil does the same, but doesn't have to be wiped off.

I have found that "EEZOX" works best IMO on all the newly rust blued barrels and other blued parts that I do......

I also use EEZOX on all the case colored receivers that I do, NOT clear lacquer that scratches, peels and yellows.....

I also use EEZOX on all the internal parts during re-assembly as well.....

With multiple applications the "film" that EEZOX leaves coats the metal parts to near water proof and leaves a nice fingerprint proof permanent sheen .......

Doug - those barrels have a beautiful sheen.

Do you find that the EEZOX protects the CCH from wearing thin, or do you use it for primarily for waterproofing?

One of those questions like whats the best patch lube when shooting a muzzle loading rifle.

What ever works the best for you.
All have been tried and all have given good results (in the eye of the finisher at least),, or you wouldn't see them touted as 'the best way' to do something.

The one I really can't figure is the used motor oil with all the junk chemicals and grit that's in it.
But seems someone always has to try it and wheel bearing grease and if you don't have much else,,I'd guess it'd do.

Linseed, G-96, Clezoil, Remoil, ect. I've used them all and many many more. They all work. Clezoil is the fav of the moment now for me.
More important is to make sure there's nothing left on the steel surface underneath it to cause after rust. The oil won't prevent that.

Oil away with your favorite stuff. There's no voo-doo science to it.
It won't be the last wipe down the bbl gets.
It just happens to be the first after being completely oil free during the blue process.

http://www.warrencustomoutdoor.com/eezox-gc.html

Doverham, here's the factory information on EEZOX for you.............I think the fact that EEZOX is a synthetic lubricant pretty much explains it's superior lubricating and rust proofing qualities...

EEZOX protects the CCH as it leaves a dried film over the steel and direct handling contact on the steel is reduced to a minimum....in my experience it does not wipe off like the petroleum based products, therefore protects surfaces much better in all temperatures and climates......

This has been my experience, other opinions here will surely differ......

I have left over Hoppe's, Clennzoil and Rem Oil since I discovered EEzox a couple years ago. Use it on all metal; inside and out.

Angier used and recommended Vaseline (petroleum jelly) applied hot to hot barrels, then a wipe down with a chamois leather.

Applied with a heat gun it should be pretty easy and effective.

Eug

I use automatic transmission fluid because it has lots of anticorrosives in it. My Black powder shooters use it, which is where I got the idea. However, after rusting,use a baking soda solution poured over the warm barrels to prevent afterrusting.

I have not been doing the final baking soda step. I assumed any unreacted acid is washed away in the boil.