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After 41 years loosening rusted fasteners on the farm, on equipment that may never see shelter, I have settled on Zep 45 as being the best penetrant I have ever used. However, I am certainly open to suggestions as to a penetrant that will beat it. But, for now, Zep 45 is the standard to be beat, for me.

docbill, would you please enlighten us more about your product? If you feel uncomfortable doing so on the forum, feel free to p.m. me.

I'm certainly not pooh-poohing OoW as a penetrant, never tried it.

SRH


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Hopefully the powers that be won't object. This isn't advertising.

My product is called Burlite. I have sold it for about 20 yrs. to the refineries/chemical plants along the Tx/La Gulf coast. Each spring/fall they do turn arounds when the plants are broken open and the catylst removed/reloaded to change from heating oil to gasoline production and vice versa. A lot of the hard hats in the plants think this product works better than anything else, of course a lot of people say that. You have to decide on you own.

From my experience with these things, wicking/capaliry action is the critical issue to achieve wetting in micropore spaces like a rust matrix. Nothing will work on galled metal because there is no micro porosity.

If anyone wants a sample please PM me, e-mail at docbill72@ gmail.com or call 800-962-9693 and we can work out the details.


W. E. Boyd
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Docbill,
How about posting a link to that industrial penetrating oil that you market so I can order some and give it a try. I've not had great luck with Kroil where frozen screws on old doubles are concerned.


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docbill, I have worked until retirement in fossil generating stations for most of my working life. I have taken apart generators, turbines and taking these apart, the shells were held in with 2 1/2"-3" turbine bolts that were coated with anti-seize Felpro with a copper additive to it. Our nuclear stations would only allow the graphite additive Felpro and most if not all bolts were stainless of some kind. These large turbine bolts have a hole in them for an electric heat rod that headed the bolt and then were removed with a 2" drive impact gun held by a crane. These bolts came out fairly easy, but it was some of the other bolts that would not come out so easily. For those we used Kroil penetrating oil. We had many fossil generating stations and also used many gas turbine engines for back-up power. In these building it was always very damp as the buildings were concrete with the gas turbines mounted on stands with rubber bushings. Sometimes these mounting bolts were also very hard to remove and Kroil always seemed to do the job.
The reason I bring this story up is, our company had tried all the available products out there to find out what works the best, and they have stuck with Kroil for many years. It is quite possible that your product wasn't researched, and like you said, I cannot give a comparison of the two. Kroil seems to be like the old Liguid Wrench.

I realize this should be in Mis-Fires, so excuse me.


David


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Hi:

I have found ATF and acetone to be as good as anything for rusted fasteners on cars etc.!

One may add other ingredients to the ATF/Acetone mix to enhance its performance but I am quite happy with the above mix!

I added some Liquid Wrench to the mix to enhance the "wetting action",but it did not seem to do any good.

Stay well,

Franchi

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I don't have a web site because when we did NO one from the industrial world ever used it. There have been locations who used Kroil oil and ditched it for us and places who tried us and didn't change and I can't explain why. This is a try it yourself and see what happens problem.

There are tricks to using most penetrants and one is to keep the part wet so that the liquid has time to wick. Sometime that requires wetting rags and putting them on the head/nut or both and wrapping with plastic for several days before hitting the bolt ends with hammers and then torque. Innovative thinking is required sometime.


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keith Offline OP
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Docbill, I found it interesting how you said that a good penetrating oil will climb a rusty nail. That reminded me that the now unavailable Cabot's Tasgon I mentioned as being so fantastic would climb out of an unsealed can and stain the sides and bottom.

I have used the Zep 45 that Stan mentioned, and found it far superior to Kroil, but I still keep searching for something better. I'm glad so many people have had success with Kroil, but if it ever fails you, I would try something else before resorting to more extreme measures like drilling out the stuck fastener. Patience really is a virtue when you are dealing with a stuck screw. I've had a few that resisted repeated efforts for days, and then when I went back at it weeks later it would come out as if it was never stuck. I really don't think topics like this are off topic because many of us are into repairing and restoring old doubles, and if we can help each other from stripping, breaking, or buggering screws, that's a good thing.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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I wonder if the types of metals which are rusted makes a difference?

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keith Offline OP
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It certainly does. Some alloys of steel rust faster and more severely than others. Some gall more easily, and some are softer and more prone to twisting off or deforming before the bond of the corrosion can be overcome. Also, some alloys are just better suited for machining clean smooth threads.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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I always am amused when some one comes up with substance or concoction to which they attritube wonderful and mysterious properties far beyond and vastly superior to more common things like plain old penetrating oil in this instance. Any oil that is very light or made light with the addition of a solvent like acetone etc, will be drawn into a joint by capillary action. Funny that no one puts forth their credentials such as a lubrication chemist who studied at RPI, etc. Or telling us about his side by side testing of multiple substances on several of the exactly same rusted fastener in the exact same environment, all at the same time. Freeing up up a manure spreader bolt one day, and a sickle bar fastener a month later, doesn't nean much. This is like a grandfather talking about his grandkid who is ugly as sin, but is the most handsome kid in the world if you listen to grandpa. CB

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