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keith Offline OP
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Awhile back, I was perusing an antique tractor website and happened upon a discussion about penetrating oils. A number of folks were very enthusiastic about their successes with Oil of Wintergreen. Anyone who has worked on old tractors knows this is a good test track for frozen, rusted fastener removal.

Since I haven't been very impressed with anything currently on the market, and I've tried a bunch, I bought a 4 oz. bottle of pure Wintergreen Oil and tried it yesterday. I was working on an 1891 vintage Lefever that wouldn't cock on the right side, and had a sluggish top lever. There were several stubborn screws, and one, the retaining screw for the top lever spring was broken off flush with the action surface. I gave each stubborn screw a dose of the Wintergreen and let it work for only about an hour. All unscrewed with less effort than I expected. One sear adjusting screw on the right sideplate took a couple taps with a screwdriver in the slot before it turned, but then it moved easily. This one had a buggered screw slot, and apparently had resisted someones earlier efforts to move it. The small (#5-40) top lever spring retaining screw which was broken unwound easily by turning it out with a dental pick. All of the threads on the screws were wet all the way down, and the stuff seemed to wick into the threads quickly. It's very thin. Smells a lot better than most penetrating oils too.

I realize one gun doesn't prove much, but so far this looks promising. Has anyone else here heard of this or used it?


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Used it as a graver lube for use on gold, brass, copper ect. Never as a penetrating oil,,but maybe I should give it a go.

Kroil works pretty good for penetrating oil but I hate the smell of the stuff.

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Keith, have you tried "Mouse Milk"?

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Marvel Mystery Oil has oil of wintergreen in it, hence the smell. If there is an oil that has been used more on old tractors to free seized parts, I don't know what it is.

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keith Offline OP
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When I worked for General Motors, Kroil was all we used. Almost everything I used it on was indoors and never severely corroded. After what I had read about Kroil, I expected great things. But many times, even after very long soaks and repeat applications, I would find that it didn't penetrate very deep, and the fastener had dry threads a short way down.

I never tried Mouse Milk, although I did note a few strong recommendations for it when I searched around more for references to Oil Of Wintergreen as a penetrant. I'll probably end up trying it unless the Wintergreen proves to be far above everything else I've tried since Cabot's Tasgon was removed from the market. It contained creosote, smelled very bad, but worked miracles. I have a small amount left that I only use for extreme emergencies.

Other than long experience under different conditions, I don't know how one could fairly evaluate penetrating oils. If I try four or five brands on one stubborn screw before I break it loose, how do I know one of the earlier ones didn't do most of the work?


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I recall a thread posted here some time back where a group had done some testing on penetrants. Seems they took identical bolts & rusted the nuts on them under identical conditions. They then used various penetrants & recorded the torque necessary to break the rusty nuts free. First place went to a 50/50 mix of Dexron ATF & Acetone, with Kroil coming in second. I don't recall
oil of Wintergreen being in the test, so of course no conclusins on it can be drawn from that test.


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Just curious; Where are you getting your oil of wintergreen?

I know they used to be available from a pharmacies. In a quick search I see Wintergreen Oil essential oil for aromatherapy or food flavoring. I don't know if they are the same thing or simply wintergreen extracts in an emulsion of vegetable/other oil.

Thanks

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The key to any penetrating oil is surface tension. The lower the surface tension of the oil the smaller sized pore the oil will saturate and wet. Wetting is the operative function. Wetting reduces friction that prevents turning; much like dry clay soil wetting results in slick mud.

A test to show effececy is to take a rusty nail, 8/10 penny or so, and stand it head down in a jar lid and lean it against a cardboard box. Fill the lid with the product and watch to see if the liquid wicks up the nail. If it doesn't then it won't penetrate well. The one that wicks the highest is the best product.

I make an industrially available penetrating oil and it beats Kroiloil cold.


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An additional benefit of Oil of Winter green is that as it absorbed by the human body it creates acetylsalic acid (aspirin) and sooths those aching arthritis joints.

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keith Offline OP
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LeeS, I bought my bottle of oil of wintergreen from an Ebay seller. The item no. for the 4 oz. size is 220518036153. The same seller has several other sizes. This is supposed to be 100% pure essential oil which, according to several sellers that I contacted, is pure unadulterated product. I was cautioned that this is too concentrated for prolonged skin contact as TwiceBarrel suggests for arthritis relief.

I also saw a synthetic version (methyl salicylate) being sold at generally lower prices, but I never saw any reference to the synthetic version being as good as a penetrating oil. The same seller had some cheaper stuff that is not as pure and is used for scented candle making. This 4 oz. bottle cost me $5.99 with $4.99 shipping.


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