doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Alkanet Root - Reddish Stock Look

Wow. I didn't expect so many responses to this original "alkanet" post.... but then again this is the best gun site on the web; with purists and people who care deeply about the appearance of their stocks...soooooo.... I am really NOT THAT surprised.

Great info, too! Thanks to all who posted. I am cutting and paste-ing the formulas.

By the way, I am far far far from an expert but I tried some of the DEFT products and pemixed stuff and well, I am not pleased with the results and I am hardly an expert or have an expert eye as was posted above... (which was a great post by the way).

I guess I will "brew up" my alkanet potion and label it with x's and be sure not to mistake it for burgandy and while some may think it is a horrible waste of time I will WAIT to see how well it actually works before I put it down or taut it as the best thing since sliced bread. I do have the alkanet root ordered and on its way. I am psyched to read all the posts that confirm that it was the stuff used by the old (and many new) stock finishers.

Yogi, I think it is worth remembering here that this is not, or doesn't have to be, an either or question. Some of us here have been doing this for a long time and have used the old traditional methods and materials as well as the "newer" options, which themselves are hardly new.
Some diehards may disagree, but we're all headed in the same direction and the desired result is the same. It is just a fact that there are several ways to get there. As in most things that are not simple or obvious, technique and process are really as or more important than the materials.
Excellent results can be achieved with all the materials mentioned in this thread. The traditional materials touted yield an excellent result which I think of as an exhibition finish because it is somewhat fragile and extremely vulnerable to water spotting. The new boys on the block get you a more durable finish of equal quality and color that does not waterspot nearly as badly, and get you there a lot faster. Time is still money.
Since that is the case, some would be surprised to learn what stock finishing materials actually reside on (or under?) upscale benches both here and across the pond.

Another source:
http://www.villagespinweave.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Product/asp/hierarchy/0B/product-id/374585.html

Yogi,
I have just re-read your original post,in it you mention how you would prefer an original oil finish, but then describe how you intended to finally use an oil / varnish mix.
This got me thinking, what do people REALLY want.
Is it a traditional oil finish? A high gloss French Polished finish? A hard wearing Urethane finish? Varnish?.
What is the preferable finish Guys?
I think each one mentioned has its usages but whenever we get down to the nitty gritty of a hand rubbed traditional oil finish the information available to do it is often contradictory or even unavailable.

Salopian,
I think your basic question is excellent. I want a finish inbetween traditional oil and urethane-modified oil.
I prefer the look of linseed oil but desire more protection than plain oil but straight Tru-Oil is too glossy. So I mix the two.

• Sealer coat; TO and turp about 50/50, the mix is meant to penetrate.
• Filler coats are wet-sanded TO and Linseed about 30/70, too much TO in this step can make the filled pores glossier than the wood.
• Working coats are about 40/40/20 TO, Oil, and turp.
• Top coats are pure linseed.

I've always used the wet sand and fill method for filling the open grain. Can anyone suggest a clear filler with no shrinkage that would lessen the dark pore look?

A pint jar with a tight lid full of the root and then add boiled linseed oil to the top and let it sit. The better the longer or vice versa. this what the mix is the english stockers use. We all have pet formulas but this is simple and works! The KISS method forever.
John Mc

A pint jar with a tight lid full of the root and then add boiled linseed oil to the top and let it sit. The better the longer or vice versa. this what the mix is the english stockers use. We all have pet formulas but this is simple and works! The KISS method forever.
John Mc

Hansli,
Years ago I used the white of an egg (albumin) then I used egg gloss which you could by in tins from the chemist (builders used it to seal concrete swim / fish pools) then I used sanding sealer,then I used multiple coats of spar varnish each one cut back when dry.Wet sanding with stock oil always works.
BUT nothing really works like rubbed in oil and time and patience.

Salopian,
Thanks. Typically, the masters have already factored all the methods to prime. There is ultimately a best single method for a best single result. Shortcuts have been devised but never quite give the same result. What you're saying is there's no substitute for time and elbow grease.