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Two observations about this thread are that I have learned a great deal as an individual and that stock finishers in general have a near voracious interest in similar learning and problem solving. Stock finishing is by its nature a fairly lonely pursuit - - most often done alone with memory in full play an perhaps a few scribbled or printed instructions. A good deal of trial and error type work is also a part of it, as we all know.

At one time, I was heavily into refurbishing military Curio & Relic type rifles. I can't think of a stock that commands as much restorative attention as a well used military - - steeped in cosmoline and heavy lubricants, stack-stored and often cracked and gouged, and subject to all the heavy use militaries were intended for.

Several years ago, I ran across a little forum (actually, one of many individual forums) focused on militaries. This one bore the modest title of "C&R Riflestock Cleaning and Preservation", moderated by a chap calling himself the "Cabinetman".

The operative line for this present post is - - if you can refurbish military wood successfully, you can probably do a good job on anything - - with a willingness to adapt and discounting checkering. I took this C&R forum's information to heart, read and read, and then applied.

This forum is still alive and well. At its outset there are about 10 brief essays on key stock restoration jobs. I invite you to give them a look. The forum's actual scope notably exceeds its title. Depending on your endurance, there is an incredible amount of stored information there-in. I think you'll cull out some ideas towards refinishing our beloved double gun wood that will make their reading worthwhile. For instance, the Cabinetman was into Behlen analine dyes years ago and there is a great little essay he wrote over there on the differences between dyes and stains. There are other essays on . . . sandpaper (yes, there's a lot to be said about sandpaper), "spitcoating" with shellac, lengthly discussion on BLO, tung and other finishes, and etc. etc. etc. There is also info on stock cleaning, some of it very aggressive and the use of which you'll want to weigh before you proceed.

The site address is: http://www.milsurpshooter.net
It is a part of the larger Parallax Bill's C&R site. You'll need to scroll down throuh a number of individiual forums to reach the one on cleaning and preservation.

So, in the spirit of more stock finishing learning, the above is offered.

Last edited by outdoorlvr; 11/22/06 07:22 PM.
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ODL, great site!!

Just took a peek and already learned some important stuff concerning sand paper!

Thank you.

JC(AL)


"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin
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Can you get Liberon Finishing oil in the U.S.?

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Yes, it is available from at least two sources. A tung oil product with dryers, tell us more about its properties/advantages, please.

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For those of you interested there is an informative article in the current edition of Sporting Gun by Jason Harris about stock finishing with oil.It is his way of doing it and destroys a few myths.
Dig touched lightly on it a few issues back in Sporting Shooter also.
One thing for sure is that we have come a long way from Harry (Slackum) Lawrence's days.
I have to chuckle at the Linseed haters who mention 'water spotting' we are renowned for our liquid sunshine here and I have NEVER had such a problem.
I guess "you aint doin it right boys"

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Salopian, any possibility of getting the mentioned article? Scan and email for example?

Would really appreciate it.

I should mention that based on your recipe I have been experimenting with a concoction of my own that has proven (at least in my limited experienc) rather good:

100 grams boild linseed oil
15 grams turpentine
5cc carnauba wax solution
The proportions follow the ones in your recipe (after I translated the mix up of grams and grains) except for the carnauba which I doubled considering the one I have is in a water base solution and not pure.

No boiling, just shake vigorously and it becomes homegenized. Applications of very small quantities and hand rubbing them.

Will post picture of stock to show result.

JC(AL)


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Not yet finished and very difficult to show the shine, but it can be appreciated in the
reflection of the jacket label. (Please abstain from commenting on the white line).
No stain, some sanding and "ironing" to lift some dents; not a total refinish
considering the gun is over a hundred years old so I thought it should retain some of its
patina:



JC(AL)


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Maybe here the shine can be better appreciated:



JC(AL)


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I'd appreciate some comments/criticism.

JC(AL)


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JayCee,
Love those French guns. How did the wood look before? Does this formula give 'depth' to the finish? That is something difficult to convey online but I'm interested to know nonetheless. I'm also curious about a water based liqid being blended with an oil. When emulsified does the liquid get cloudy? Esoteric points, but to the finishers in the crowd, germane to the topic.

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